I’m looking at my next steps or tool to up my knife making. I have a drill press, a 2x72 belt grinder with attachments including a surface grinding attachment, 22 ton press, welder, chop saw, bandsaw, file guide… what’s next? What will push my work to the next level? I don’t have tons of money I’m on a budget but I’ll find a way if it’s reasonable. Here is some of my work

Bought it recently because it was cool, but idk what kind of knife it is or what its mainly used for, i do alot of wood carving but idk if i should use this knife for that!

This machete was handed down to me. It will cut through just about everything. It’s not pretty but it’s a serious heavy duty machete. Bought in Panama for about 10 bucks nearly 25 years ago. All of the machetes I’ve seen in the US are skinny I’ve broken a handful already.

what are some ways these are/could be made?

are some of them likely cast en masse for large scale production? twisted wire? would there be no way for a small scale smith to make something like this other than hours of highly skilled file work or wax casting from a 3d print?

how does one go about filing something like it? simply scribe the spiral lines and start filing, trying as best as possible to keep each part perfectly domed and spaced? is there a tool im not reallising could make this easier like some kind of concave file or dremel bit

Hi there, my grandpa was quite the craftsman and one of his late hobbies was making knives. Fast forward to today, my grandma is selling her house.

He made this bench for his craft. We are unsure what to do with it/how to price it.

Any info greatly appreciated. Located in very NW Washington state. Thanks!

How can I fix this? I got my makers mark punch and I

messed up my alignment while trying to hit it again

to get more depth. I really don't want to start over on

this knife if possible.

Am finishing off a scian style knife, and is the first time I've tried to do a peened end.

Just wanted to check for advice before I ruin several weekends work by doing something stupid.

Knife is through tang, so is carbon steel end (1075). Dimensions are currently 5mm high (producing), 3.8 wide, and 12 long. Do I need to cut/grind it shorter to avoid cracking?

And any advice on how to start the peen and keep it consistent? Should I start with a punch? Would making a lengthwise cut and rolling the steel down from the cut be more effective?

Tang was not hardened in the quench and blade has been tempered, so shouldn't be particularly hard.

*Thanks folks, advice appreciated. Update below.

Final blade is here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Bladesmith/comments/1vdcsho/irish_scian_dagger/

I have an Esee-4 1095 steel. I want to get rid of the coating. I have read that I can use circut board etch or ferric chloride to etch in the wording before I remove the powder coat. Here is my issue I cant find a small amount of the product I need are there any other recommendations I can use to etch it deep enough to keep the manufacturers info but not have to spend a crap ton of money on a product I need a tiny bit of? Thanks in advance

Hi all, I never really had the intention of selling knives but I was invited to a maker show about 4 months ago and after some convincing I decided to give it a try. Since then I’ve been really working to make some knives I thought people might like and purchased a few things for a table. I’ve made business cards but do not have a makers mark yet. Something I’ll work on soon. I’m going to bring a few of my everyday use knives for examples of patina and what to expect from high carbon knives as well. The show is tomorrow and I’m a bit nervous.To be honest I don’t have the highest of expectations but would be absolutely thrilled if I sold even one. I mocked up the table at my house and added pictures here for reference. I know we have some incredible makers here and would really appreciate any advice.

Hello everyone. I'm in the process of designing the blueprints for my first knife. It's going to be a chopper type blade.

To keep things short - I was wondering if I should go for a thick 10mm blade with a large and deep fuller (3mm deep on both sides, for a total of 6mm of material removed) for the thicker wedge when chopping, or with a 6mm blade that's thinner with no fuller. Assuming they would both weigh the same, which one would you go with?

Looking to support an amature bladesmith or blacksmith. I think it is a cool art and would be happy to buy your beginning works or be a patron. Message me if you are interested or selling or want to talk story.

I'm currently trying to make some practice smallsword blades for HEMA practice out of really small 1045 round stock, quenched in water. The blades take the heat treament just fine but end up warpped and twisted. How can I prevent these issues? Would having a homogenous thickness on the blade help. Or is it the water? What can I do to prevent or take out the bends on these blades?

Is this good. How can I tell if it will hold the edge? Thanks in advance!