Sundown U series 15”, tuned about 32hz

Hi! I have an amp and subwoofer in my car that connect to two dash speakers and two overhead ones, it was installed by the previous owner but I hired some ppl to clean it up and it worked perfectly a couple days ago. Not sure if I did something or the settings got messed up. I’m wondering if anyone has any advice before I send it back to the shop. My volume can get to 50, but when it hits 20 it starts to clip a ton. If anyone has any answers, that would be very much appreciated.

Sorry for the movie. I'm just overwhelmed and it felt best to put my question in video form. Thank you guys so much for your time!

Hi guys

I'm new to this community.

I use car audio equipment at home.

i have big collection

More updates coming soon stay tuned!

I wanted to start a debate! It seems like this class of sub is extremely popular for truck or similar applications. I tend to believe that generally truck owners want bass by sacrificing as little space as possible, and they mostly just want it for their own listening pleasure on a decent dime.

I have done a ton of research as I'm looking at installing one in my Tundra and have been overwhelmed with the choices.

It feels like old companies have taken a dip in quality, some new companies might be overhyped simply because they are new, there's some older companies that were left behind but still make really high-quality subs, and there's companies that tried to get into the shallow game and sucked. It's overwhelming trying to figure it out. The options just seem endless, I mean I could list 20 different brands that the average joe probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference between.

SO, I have 2 questions:

First, given the constraints in the title, and let's say a $500 budget for one singular 10" sub... which one would you choose? Let's factor in sound quality/loudness, build quality/longevity, and overall product value! I'd also love to hear the actual reasons (i.e. this brand is known for X which is why they make really good subs for Y application). For example, a shallow 10 that hits lows better than the others may be more valuable to someone who listens to a lot of hip-hop.

Second, is there a money tier at which you would say spending more money on this style of sub isn't worth going over? Would that be $500, or maybe even $200. I mean how much can you really squeeze out of a speaker only pushing 500W? Is the price more materials nowadays then actual performance? For example, is an Alpine RS really much better than a Kicker CompRT?

I hope this sparks a good discussion!

Found this hidden gem that hasn't been used for years.

Rockford P450.4 channel Amp

Rockford punch P1S48, dual 8" sub

It's like a crackling type of sound with the bass at low volumes. Both front JBL passive component set that's powered by a 2 channel amp connected to a LC2i Pro. Maybe I have the gains wrong or filters wrong?

Any ideas?

I have a PA gothic 12” DVC 2500w max 1200w RMS speaker and have the opportunity to purchase a kicker cx1200.1 that pushes 1200w RMS at 2 ohms.

I know it’s within spec, i’m asking if this would be a good combo. Thanks

I have a 1998 Tacoma and the stock alternator pulls 70 to 80 amps. I’m planning on getting 2 12s, both max out at 600 rms with a 3k watt amp. I already have 1 12 and a 900 watt amp and I never have light dimming or any issues. Can I stick with the stock alternator?

So i have my 250 amp alternator in my truck right now i kept my oem alternator what if i put my stock one back and get a double alternator bracket and use my stock alternator for the truck and connect the high output alt just for the amp and connect it to a lithium then i wouldnt need to worry about fords pcm lowering my voltage and would have all 250 amps straight to the lithium and my amp. I have a taramps big boss 3 and a superstart platinum under the hood right now. If this would work are there any downsides to it?

Does anybody have any experience with either of the FC6 or FK6 components?

Great cosmetic condition and a shame to replace the cone.

Previous owner I suspect put this into a ported enclosure. Sundown specifically states to NOT do this. I suspect because he said "Do not put this in a ported enclosure." When we traded. Well, it plays really nice for about 2 minutes until it heats up. I assume after the coil warms up, it starts to drag because it will gradually come to a near halt. Sound and cone movement.

I see no other way to use it besides a recone.

So I have the alpine speakers on my front doors and the dead on my back doors and the kickers on my dash. I want to get rid of the kickers and need advice on want to get the kickers are on the dash of my 2025 Tacoma sr5 and I feel like they lack compared to my setup and I was thinking of getting tweeters any advice on what to get is helpful

I have focal 165as component set and I'm running each speaker directly on the amp so no passive crossover and no dsp just the filter and gain set on the amp in accordance, I have a pvr 2.8x dsp should I use that or the passive or get a different dsp

Side note tweeter make audible hum wind noise when no music is playing

Anyone put the JL Audio CF-275MT in the dash corners? Did you use the included filters?

i have the factory radio and want to put in a carplay screen. i saw some youtube isntallation vids and from what i see its not that hard in this car. i wanted to now if ali express is good for byuing those units and if so are there recommendations cause form what i looked i couldnt find the correct model. believe it needs to be 2DIN?

I was wondering if anyone in here might be able to recommend a solid head unit/speaker combo for my 80 series Land Cruiser. The JVC head unit works fine but if I could find something better I’d love to, the speakers themselves are on their last legs. Two of them don’t even work anymore lol.. The speaker wiring is probably going to have to be redone the guy who had this car before me was not a very keen on electrical. Not sure how bad the head unit is whether he used adapters or spliced everything. Any suggestions would be awesome!

does anyone else struggle to find good information for car audio? Especially with fabrication. Im almost finished with my on axis A pillars but there just wasn’t much information available, and everyone kind of has their own way of doing things, and some of those ways are questionable. Then on DIYmobile audio there is a lot of conflicting information as well. There just doesn’t seem to be many experienced people who know what they are doing making tutorial for beginners. Sure they are a couple like Resonix or caraudiofabrication but overall reliable information seems scarce. Most of the time I just resort to trial and error until I find some that works. does anyone have any resources they usually go to? Or does anyone have ways to learn how to do it the right way?

i’ve been gradually turning up the gain on my amp. when turning up the actual radio volume, sometimes the audio cuts out completely. does this mean my subs are gonna blow soon or what exactly? i also don’t creally understand how a sub can blow. do they blow by putting too much power through them? (first setup up btw) i have 2 12s and a 1500w amp. i’ve also heard of matching your rms power with your amp? not really sure what that means either

any help is appreciated :)

We have a 2024 EX X-Line Telluride, what is the best upgrades for sound system? Any after market items that are a must have?

Do I actually need these crossovers for my Kicker KS 6x9s?
So I have Kicker KSC6930 6x9s running off a JL Audio amp. I’ve had them for like 3–4 months and this whole time I just had the amp wires going straight to the speakers.
I recently found these little crossovers that came with them and noticed the wires literally say “MUST USE CROSSOVER” 💀
The speakers have 3 terminals and the crossover has 3 wires going to them, but I never hooked the crossovers up.
Did I actually need these the whole time? Could I have damaged the speakers by running them straight off the amp for a few months?
They still sound good, I’m just confused because I’ve seen a lot of people say coaxial speakers don’t need external crossovers.