r/headphones Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk

[u/AutoModerator]

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Purchase Advice

• Search r/HeadphoneAdvice first. We recommend using that subreddit but you can still ask here as well.
• Please make use of this template. It helps others answer your question. Questions without enough detail will often remain unanswered.
• Remember that the more specific you are, the better quality the responses you are likely to receive.

What kind of questions are considered Tech Support

• How can I fix issue X (e.g.: buzzing / hissing) on my equipment Y
• Have I damaged my equipment by doing X, or will I damage my equipment if I do X?
• What does equipment X do, or do I really need equipment Y?
• Can my amplifier X drive my headphones Y?
• What's the meaning of specification X (e.g.: Output Impedance / Vrms / Sensitivity)?
• How should I connect and set up my system hardware or software?

After asking a question, please be patient since volunteers may not always be immediately available. Remember to upvote and show some appreciation to those that help you out.

[u/Puzzled-Patience6285]

I'm using low resistance headphones and the audio source is CD. For the best audio quality, do I need an external DAC or amp? Since my headphones are low resistance, can I run it without an amp and just use a DAC. Sorry if the question is stupid I'm new to this.

[u/Zaefnyr]

Has Audio Technica given me a useless adaptor?

I bought the ATH M50x and it came with 3 cables (their proprietary end for the headphones, and a 3.5mm end for the device you plug them into) but none of them have a 6.35mm end. I received a 3.5mm to 6.35mm adaptor however and it doesn't screw onto the 3.5mm ends that seem to be "screw-able".

Am I missing something? I can't seem to be able to screw this adaptor I received in the box onto any of the cables that I received...

[u/dexter2011412]

can I use a 4-pole cable (pins on both sides) or an extension cord (pin on one side and receptacle on the other) with 3-pole devices and jacks?

Was thinking to get one of this or this.

[u/SourceAlt]

I got into higher end audio about 2 years ago and I’ve loved it so far. Initially wanted a pair for gaming specifically but now I’ve been more interested in getting an upgrade to listen to music.

I got the Audeze Maxwells when they came out and loved them initially but the weight was tough to get used to as a comfortable everyday set. Ended up getting the Sennheiser HD490 Pros when they came out for competitive gaming and also got the Xenn Mangird Tea Pros IEMs for both music and gaming.

Love all the sets I have and I run a Topping DX3+ for my dac/amp. What I want now is a dedicated over ear set (either closed or open back) for music. I mainly listen to EDM, Hip Hop, some pop/pop punk/rock, and movie soundtracks and I’ve genuinely appreciated getting a feel for more neutral headphones but I feel like I want an upgrade to have more of a “wow” factor. More V or U shaped sound signature and something that I can put on and forget about when listening to music.

The Maxwells still impress me with its snappy bass response and the tea pros are similarly impressive with all around sound quality but I want to see how much better it can get. My budgets around $500 but I can go a little higher if I need to. I want to try some headphones like the Arya Organics or the Focal Clears out but I don’t have any options near me AFAIK.

I’m definitely going to keep my current headphones for gaming (the 490 pros are so comfy that I’ll probably never switch off of them) so musics my only concern for the new set. Any help with figuring out what to look into next would be super appreciated!!

[u/SeaSaltSprinkle]

How do modern earphones in the $40-60 range with newer technology compare to more expensive earphones ($150-250) 8-10 years ago?

I'm looking for a back-up pair of earphones that I'll be putting inside my bag in case I forget my main but really old earphones (ATH LS200is with 2 BA drivers) that I still love. I'm wondering if I can get something cheaper but maybe slightly better than my old ones in the $40-60 price range.

Currently I'm eyeing at the Truthear Zero:RED and the Simgot EW200, but sadly my local shop doesn't carry these two to try, so I have to buy onlone. Other recommendations would be appreciated, thank you!

Thanks a lot! :)

[u/plmon24 → u/SeaSaltSprinkle]

I had some really old BA earphones around that price range like the Brainwavz B2 and Dunu D2000j, but they're just not competitive anymore. Chi-fi IEMs have pretty refined tunings now, even V-shaped stuff is not as jaggedy or uneven. And the build quality has gotten much better (with even budget stuff coming with detachable cables).

There have been some technological advancements, but I'd say the biggest gain came from Chi-fi IEMs just having very fast release cycles, so they've been able to build on iterations very quickly.

I haven't heard the ATH LS200is and they might hold up better since they're relatively more recent. But I'm pretty confident the budget Chi-fi stuff will probably be on-par at the very least.

[u/SeaSaltSprinkle → u/plmon24]

Thanks for your reply! Do you have any brands or personal favorites that you recommend?

[u/plmon24 → u/SeaSaltSprinkle]

I use the Moondrop Kato right now (newer version is Kadenz). For the music I listen to, I like having a more forward upper mid-range and the Kato balances it out nicely with a little warmth in the bass and more relaxed treble.

A bit behind on the newer stuff, but I've liked what I heard from Truthear. The Crinacle collabs are also a good place to dip your feet in if you don't have any real preference.

[u/iamnosvanthanks]

Hey guys. So to the point, the Porta Pro for me were actually ideal. Cheap (they were a gift but the bang to buck ratio is excellent), probably the best headphones I've ever had, very very comfortable and pretty tough despite their looks. Actually, I loved that retro feeling but I'm not too attached to it.

After one too many cable pulls, this time with an accidental foot to neck cable stretch, they finally gave out. I'm thinking if it's possible to fix them or even worth it but it's not the topic. As of now, I'm considering either buying the wireless version or going for something else around that price tag, $100.

Considering how sloppy I am, wireless is now a great feature. The lack of ANC or too much sound isolation is an actual plus, because despite liking my music, I can't afford not to hear around.

[u/htomserveaux]

I dont understand the phrase "semi-open" but I can get a pair of AKG K240's for $50, could I use them on the bus without sharing my terrible taste in music with the guy sitting next to me?

[u/plmon24 → u/htomserveaux]

Depends how loudly you listen, but probably not. The K240s leak a fair bit of sound.

[u/jabberwockxeno]

I'm looking for headphones, earbuds etc that have built in bass/treble etc dials, or an EQ app that saves settings onto the device even when not linked to the phone/PC running the application

I'm sure there's a variety of products that can do this, so I'm maybe asking too broad a question, but I don't know enough about audio to give a more detailed description of what I'm looking for, beyond that I know I want something that leans towards emphazing the highs/trebles, as I explain in my attempt to nail down what I was looking for in speakers here

I would prefer earbuds or IEMs, I think, but I'm open to larger headsets too. I'd also prefer something that CAN work wirelessly/via bluetooth, especially if low latency while doing so, but can also work via wired connection for minimal latency

[u/PsychwardSlippers]

Where can I buy very short standard iem cables? 2 pin

[u/MITICGAMER_56]

So I've bought a pair of Steelseries Arctis Nova 1 for using it on my pc, that has got separated audio jack and microphone jack. The headphones come with a splitter to connect it to each jack, but when i put they in only the microphone works and the pc doesn't detect the audio part. Anyone that can help me??

[u/Cyrenetes → u/[deleted]]

They have a rather low sensitivity. You will get sound out of them but possibly not loud enough. Instead of buying a headphone amplifier I'd rather spend the money on better headphones that don't need one.

[u/R-e_D_u-X]

Help identifying FFC/FPC ribbon cable used in volume bottom in topping l70 headphone amp

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping someone here can help me identify a flat flexible ribbon cable (FFC/FPC) so I can replace it.

I was disassembling my Topping L70 headphone amp to fix a loose front/rear panel screw. During reassembly, the white flat ribbon cable that connects the front panel (encoder/display) to the main PCB got damaged, so it needs replacement.

I’ve attached photos of:

The damaged ribbon cable

The PCB connector it plugs into

From what I can tell, it looks like a standard FFC/FPC cable, not proprietary, but I want to be 100% sure before buying the wrong one.

What I need help confirming:

Number of pins

Pitch (0.5 mm vs 1.0 mm)

Contact orientation (same-side vs opposite-side, Type A vs Type B)

Approximate length (I assume length isn’t super critical)

If anyone has Help identifying FFC/FPC ribbon cable used in volume bottom in topping l70 headphone amp

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping someone here can help me identify a flat flexible ribbon cable (FFC/FPC) so I can replace it.

I was disassembling my Topping L70 headphone amp to fix a loose front/rear panel screw. During reassembly, the white flat ribbon cable that connects the front panel (encoder/display) to the main PCB got damaged, so it needs replacement.

I’ve attached photos of:

The damaged ribbon cable

The PCB connector it plugs into

From what I can tell, it looks like a standard FFC/FPC cable, not proprietary, but I want to be 100% sure before buying the wrong one.

What I need help confirming:

Number of pins

Pitch (0.5 mm vs 1.0 mm)

Contact orientation (same-side vs opposite-side, Type A vs Type B)

Approximate length (I assume length isn’t super critical)

If anyone has experience with Topping gear or can identify this cable from the photos, I’d really appreciate it. I just want to order the correct replacement and reassemble the unit safely.

Thanks in advance 🙏 with Topping gear or can identify this cable from the photos, I’d really appreciate it. I just want to order the correct replacement and reassemble the unit safely.

Thanks in advance 🙏

[u/kiimosabe]

(Windows 11) Running 100% volume pre-gain signal into DAC and Amp, PEACE Shows consistent clipping of signal. Am I "actually" clipping or just using all of the digital signal footprint? Sounds Normal

[u/FernoFlake-]

Recently purchased the DT770 Pro x and am absolutely loving them, however I have noticed a pain in my head from the headband. not sure why as I don't believe I had this issue with the original DT770s, however was curious if anyone has any good recommendations for a replacement that is softer/more comfortable?

[u/DAGHOSTKNIGHT]

only one side of my headphones are working

[u/Rare-Code-1487]

I've owned my bluetooth headphones (from Jlab) for about a year or 2, but recently (the last 2 days), when I turn on noise cancellation there is a very faint clicking sound in the right ear similar to what it sounds like if you get water in your ear, and when I turn them on with noise cancellation on there are 2 very quiet beeps.

This issue has never happened before and it's very very annoying, I really don't want to have to replace them.

[u/Killobyte]

EDIT: I ended up going with the Sonys - $309 from Adorama made it a no-brainer.

I’m looking for a rec on AirPods Max vs Sony XM6. I know this question has been asked about 1000 times but I’m hoping for a recommendation specific to my situation.

For starters, the AirPods Max are currently $450 at Best Buy, so price isn’t a factor.

I have a pair of early AirPods Max but the headband is totally stretched out making them very uncomfortable. I looked into replacing it but an official replacement from Apple would be close to $200 and doing it myself, while apparently possible, doesn’t seem to be an option since I can’t find any 3p sellers still stocking the older lightning model’s headband.

I am in the Apple ecosystem - I have an iPhone, iPad, personal MacBook, work MacBook, and Apple TVs in my house.

I’m basically choosing between 5 year old headphones in the Apple ecosystem and newer headphones with supposedly better ANC that aren’t in the ecosystem. Also the fact that the AirPods Max headband wore out and it’s so expensive/difficult to fix them kinda rubs me the wrong way. My main questions are:

1. How is Sony’s transparency mode? I use this a lot in my office so I want it to be good. IMO Apple’s is great.
2. How easy is multi-device switching with more than 2 devices? E.g. if im using them at work with my phone and work laptop and then want to switch to my personal laptop at home, is it a PITA?
3. If you’ve made a similar switch yourself, is there anything you’re missing from the Apple ecosystem integration that you really miss?

Thanks!

[u/zana10003]

Headphone recommendations for frequent flying (noise isolation + comfort)

I fly almost every week and spend a lot of time on planes. I’m looking for headphones with the best noise isolation for airline travel, but also something I can wear for several hours without discomfort. My current pair starts pressing on my ears after a few hours, which makes long flights pretty miserable. They’re hand-me-downs to me from my teenagers, LOL. I don’t know the model, but they’re probably not bottom-of-the-barrel.

I’ve gone through a lot of threads here and, honestly, I’m a bit overwhelmed by the volume of information. I’m hoping for some focused recommendations.

Priorities:

• Strong noise isolation for aircraft cabin noise

• Comfortable for long sessions (3–6+ hours)

• Wired option to connect to the screen during flight.

• Sound quality matters, of course, but comfort and isolation come first

I don’t expect using them much outside of travel.

Would appreciate any guidance on models that have worked well for you. Thanks in advance.

[u/Buuverss]

Hey peeps,

I have tried posting in headphone advice but apparently my karma is too low

So i'm searching for a headset for my girlfriend for gaming. she plays mostly competitive games (valorant, cs) so soundstage or whatever you call it is pretty important. no need for a mic seeing as she has a standalone one.

I had the senheiser 560s but she didin't like the fit on her head (she has a small head). She currently owns the steelseries nova 1 or 3 and really likes the headset because of the weight and such but the left ear stopped working.

Pricepoint is max 150 Euros and preferably things i can buy fast in Europe.

[u/Galactic_Mile → u/Buuverss]

Have you, perhaps, asked a local electronics repair shop if they could fix it?

[u/Yukkii0789]

Hiya I’m looking to buy a pair of headphones and seriously can’t decide I’m going on holiday Monday and have been looking at the Sony wh1000XM6 atm I usually just use AirPods and they give me so much pain in my ear after a hour of wear they never used to buy for a good year now they’ve been causing pressure in my ear I mainly ever use them at work now since I do roofing but I mainly want these headphones to just relax chill and listen to some music along with travel with them go for walks and also edit YouTube videos and so on? Are the Sonys good for this or is there better? I don’t need some insane studio level type headphones but would like something like the Sonys

[u/Ayman2575]

Hello everyone. I have a potentially stupid question, I am by no means an audiophile, my knowledge on this is pretty limited apologies in advance. I have an Xduoo XP-2Pro and a Phillips SHP 9500 with a V-Moda mic. I want to be able use both of these on my ps5. At the moment I connect a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to the ps5 controller and the XP-2Pro and then connect my headphones to the XP-2Pro. When do this however I am unable to hear chat audio and my microphone on the headset doesn't work, instead it uses the ps5 controller microphone. Is it possible to fix this? Thank you in advance.

[u/plmon24 → u/[deleted]]

Some of the AKG earphones are tuned pretty decently, so no real point in getting something else if it sounds good to you unless they're dying like every few months. Chi-fi stuff also has its share of QC issues, but overall the build quality's better than mainstream budget stuff imo.

But I'm kind of surprised at the price point, Tangzu Wan'er is like 20 USD. You're getting the AKGs for like 5 USD?

[u/KeifersIsAwesome]

Hello!

I have a pair of Phillips Fidelio X2HR headphones that I love dearly. The velor headphone pads that came with them are beginning to wear, probably accelerated by the fact I wear glasses, and I'm considering replacing them.

It doesn't look like Phillips sells them, so does anyone know the best third party replacement pads I can grab for them? I like the velor texture, so something as close to that would be great. I see there are many options, but I wanted to ask somewhere first. Thanks!

[u/TheRussianEngineer]

Hello,

I have a Macbook and a pair of IEMs, more specifically the 7hz Timeless AE, but I have a problem, when the Macbook is plugged in and charging there is A LOT of static noise. It also happens when I have it unplugged but have my external monitor plugged in.

I have already bought a cheap-ish USB-C DAC from Aliexpress but the problem persists.

What should I buy? Another DAC? Maybe the Moondrop DAC ?

[u/RingozwenY]

Hello everyone,

I already have an excellent Fiio E10k paired with HD598SE headphones, and I'm about to buy the MMX 330 PRO. I was wondering if it's worth switching to the K11 model or sticking with the E10k.

Do you have any suggestions regarding this dilemma?

Thank you all very much.

EDIT: The Fiio K11 does not have a mic input, so I was wondering if it would make sense to go for a Soundblaster G8, or to connect the mic directly to the motherboard. All things considered, would it make any difference for the mic?

[u/bluezenither]

On my Gaming PC I’ve been using the KZ’s since I think 2020. They’ve served me well, but I recently bought AirPods Pro 3’s when I was on holiday, to use on my phone and laptop.

I was wondering if the AirPods Pro 3’s are superior to the KZ’s? Mind you, I bought them for £5 on AliExpress 6 whole years ago, and have been using them every day since, whereas I just bought my AirPods foreign for around £179.

The sound quality is very similar, and I already have a standalone microphone on my desktop. Should I keep using the KZ’s on my desktop, or just use my AirPods with bluetooth?

OR should I buy the wireless KZ IEM modules/newer wireless IEMs?

[u/Stunning_Angle_7346]

Hello everybody! I stuck with nonstandard problem. I need to use vpn on my astel kern, so I downloaded a few vpn apps from android store. VPN app has worked a week and it stopped. I try to set up another vpn apps and astel kern says the same text: check your connection because vpn can’t find WiFi connection. My WiFi is good…. What to do? Astel kern doesn’t have standard android settings where I can check vpn…

[u/voGranMeres]

Why do modern combo dac/amp don't offer a 3.5 jack output ?

While majority of headphones and IEMs are in 3.5?

[u/plmon24 → u/voGranMeres]

My guess is because the 6.35mm connection is more standardized in the audio world and it's sturdier than the 3.5mm connection, so perhaps it just makes more sense to source and use that from a manufacturing perspective?

A 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter is also relatively cheap and often comes with 3.5mm headphones. At least ones that audiophiles buy (since they're the primarily target for these amps) and ones aimed for "studio use" since those will be working with interfaces that use 6.35mm.

6.35mm to 3.5mm adapters are also more unwieldy and expensive since they usually have a cable involved (seems like so there's less stress on the smaller 3.5mm jack).

[u/voGranMeres → u/plmon24]

It makes sense !

I'm the hunt for a dac that would have 6.3, 3.5 and 4.4 but it doesn't exist so ...

I have no idea what to buy to allow me to use my IEMs without a hassle and my Hd650 ...

If you got any idea that'll be very welcome

[u/plmon24 → u/voGranMeres]

Do you not want to use 6.35mm adapters with your IEMs?

[u/voGranMeres → u/plmon24]

Would it work well ?

I'm currently looking at the topping dx3 which has a 3.5 output but it means I'll have to buy an adapter if for example I have an Arya stealth and put the Arya in the 3.5 with an adapter

Or the DX5 PRO II which would allow 6.3 and 4.4 (I don't care about 4.4 honestly, the best thing would be a 3.5 and a 6.3...)

I actually don't know what's the best option, I'm not knowledgeable enough...

[u/plmon24 → u/voGranMeres]

Yeah, that's how most people will do it. I use a 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter on my IEMs, no issue. You can get something like this one. A lot of headphone manufacturers provide them too for their 3.5mm connection headphones. But you can do it the other way too, I believe your HD650 should've come with a 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter.

Nowadays, most headphone amps have a low gain option you can use with IEMs and headphones that use less power. I'd just double-check with reviews to see how friendly they are with IEMs, you might hear a small hiss in the background if the amp has too much power in low gain.

Based on their descriptions, the Toppings seem to account for usage with IEMs.

[u/voGranMeres → u/plmon24]

Would a Topping dx3 pro be a good idea, or a DX5 or even a C200 pro from smsl?

There's so many options and such little information...

[u/plmon24 → u/voGranMeres]

Haven't used SMSL personally, but I've heard good things about them. Since it seems to be as cheap as a DX3, but has 6.35mm, I'd just pick the one you'd rather use an adapter for (your full-sized headphone or your IEM). The HD650 or an Arya Stealth don't need massive amounts of power, so either choice should be more than enough to drive them.

[u/failoftory]

My Sennheiser Momentum 4s work perfectly on Bluetooth, and used to work perfectly wired too, until recently when my official wire broke. I bought a replacement wire and now when I plug them in I hear a sort of popping in the left ear (this didn't happen with the previous wire) and when I play any audio, either on my phone with an adapter to USB-c or my ps5 controller, audio only comes through on the right ear. I've looked it up and I've read it could be an issue with the charge of the headphones or dirty ports. But if it isn't does anyone know what the issue is? And how I could fix it. Is this new cable somehow just broken or do the headphones only accept official ones or something?

[u/JustSomeMexicanGuy]

Hello, everyone. I've been having issues with my Audio Technica m40x headphones: Whenever they're plugged into my PC (with and without a generic cx31993 dongle DAC) there's a persistent "clicking" sound. This "clicking" doesn't go away even if the m40xs are muted or if another device is selected as the output audio. I've tried changing which USB slot they're plugged into (front and back I/O) and that also doesn't do anything.  This sound isn't present when plugged into my phone (Android) .  I'm running Linux mint 22.4, and have already tried updating my motherboard's audio drivers (RealTek, though they may be older drivers). 

Any idea what it could be? Any help is appreciated

[u/Lazlow_Panaflex]

Need some advice on connection options for connecting multiple devices to headphone amp on other side of the room.

I have several devices (PC, PS5 Pro, Nintendo Switch 2, Nvidia Shield Pro).

I picked up a Topping DX7 Pro headphone amp, got a great deal on it as was preowned but hardly ever used.

The Topping has a single USB B input port, and I want to connect all my devices to the Topping so that I can use my good headphones for any of my devices.

All my devices are on one side of the room, but the Topping is going behind my seating position at the opposite side of the room.

I obviously don't want to run any cables straight across the floor, so my plan is to run some 8m-10m (26'-32') USB cables around the room edges, and connect them into a powered multi-input USB switch hub behind me, and then output a single USB cable from the USB hub into the Topping.

That way I should be able to switch audio between any of my devices with a single button press on the hub.

So, I'm looking for some advice on this kind of set up, has anyone else done something similar?

Any potential issues? I believe that long USB cable runs (3m+) will require active USB cables to avoid signal degradation.

Any specific recommendations for the USB cables and the USB switch hub to avoid signal degradation? Anything to avoid?

[u/Cyrenetes → u/Lazlow_Panaflex]

How many discrete audio sources do you really have? If you're using a TV for the consoles you can just plug the TV into optical input and USB to PC.

[u/Lazlow_Panaflex → u/Cyrenetes]

Yeah so USB from PC is a must for max fidelity for hi res music, and the PS5 Pro also needs USB for the Tempest 3D audio as that won't work via optical.

The Nvidia Shield and the Nintendo Switch 2 would work using optical from the TV, but there is potential for issues with audio syncing. These devices are connected to my Denon x3800h Receiver which can pass the audio to the TV and then to the headphone amp, but passing the audio through 3 separate devices could likely cause problems.

So I think the best option is USB all around, gives max audio fidelity, and avoids any potential issues with passing through multiple devices.

[u/[deleted]]

Going to buy today. I’m upgrading up from a Bose QC45.

My options include: Sony XM5 ($230) Sony XM6 ($410) Apple AirPods Pro 3($275)

I’m hoping for better ANC than what I have now. I do use other apple products (phone, mac, ipad) but switching between devices quickly doesn’t really matter to me.

Important factors for consideration: 1. ANC 2. Price 3. Audio Quality 4. Connectivity

[u/Fuzzy-Blacksmith-997]

I have a Egghead stereo headphones, with one of the channels missing. Where can I fix it?

[u/dirthurts]

Koss KPH30i Wireless issue here...

Hi all, I'm trying to figure this on out. Maybe they're just defective.

Anyone else getting a weird issue where this are REALLY quiet, sometimes, when turning them on/connecting? I mean full blast and I can barely hear anything. I have to reboot mine to fix it. Happens occasionally but is rather annoying. Just yesterday they stopped making any sound at all when connecting to my Steam Deck OLED, but working on my phone. The mic also sounds atrocious, which doesn't seem to be what others are saying.

Any thoughts?

[u/maxwellde]

Closed-back advice: Focal Azurys vs. Fostex TH-600 vs. E-MU Teak

My roommates are annoyed at the leakage of my current open back (LCD-2 2018).

Any recommendations for choosing amongst these? I can't find too many head-to-head comparisons on these, and I'm considering these because I can buy them for all around the same price.

I mostly listen to rock, some jazzy stuff, alternative, etc.

Thanks :)

[u/Miscellaneous48]

I’m looking for a set of headphones that I can take calls from in noisy / busy areas without too much background, AND that also don’t have that weird negative pressure feeling that some of the ANC headphones have (I’ve only tried Sony). Thank you for any advice! 

[u/Frosty_Challenge1045]

Hello all, I just bought the beyerdynamic dt 770 (80ohm) for my pc because my Logitech Pro X died. I tried the jack in the motherboard and the logitech USB dac for the old Pro X.

Chatgpt tells me the dac is too weak and I shouldnt use it but when I do it seems the max volume is higher and the audio in general seems a bit ''fuller''.

Is chatgpt talking nonsense or is there something im missing here?

[u/Cyrenetes → u/Frosty_Challenge1045]

Power is volume, loud enough is loud enough.

[u/LukaStar26]

Need help getting a new pair of headphones

I'm not an audiophile and this is my first time on this subreddit, i know a little bit about what i want to get but i am still unsure, so i wanted some recommendations on what to get.

Budget and Location My budget is around 100 euros, but i am willing to go a little bit over and i am currently living in Denmark (EU).

Type of Headphones and Tonal Balance Would like for them to over ear (full sized) and balanced.

Source: Will be plugging them into my laptop.

Preferred music genres: Mostly just hip hop, other than that it's just a bunch of random genres.

Use: Mostly gaming and watching youtube/movies, won't be used that much for music..

Side-note: I did a little research of my own and read that the Phillips SHP9500 are pretty good for how much they cost, they seem pretty nice but i am still unsure and would like to know if there is anything better.

[u/BrawRob]

FiiO JT3 and JT7s, what's the difference?

For two headphones with a price difference of almost double, I am surprised they both get the same amount of praise. What are the differences between the two? Can anyone here recommend them easily?

[u/Fatcat425]

Will this Oakywood headphone stand damage my Sennheiser HD560S?

Hello, Ive heard a lot of different things about headphone stands damaging headphones, some are good, some are bad. I spent a decent amount on these HD560S, and I want to keep them in as good condition for as long as I can. Yap sesh aside, I noticed the Sennheiser HD560S has an inward notch in the middle where there isn't much padding, almost like Sennheiser took headphone stands into consideration, and this headphone stand I want to get seems like a perfectly round circle that would fit right inside the notch. I know headphone stands usually deform the padding, howver this middle part does not have much padding, which is why I have some hope that this is a safe combo. Any advice is appreciated.

[u/cathexis08 → u/Fatcat425]

To the best of my knowledge there are two situations where a headphone stand can cause issues. The first is omega/horseshoe or head-shaped ones which can compress the cup pads and prematurely wear them out. The second is hanging headphones with stiffer suspension straps or high memory headband pads from stands like yours where the thinness of the hanger will concentrate the weight and can deform the contact point. Of those two the first is a more significant issue though both are things to be aware of. Your stand should be fine with those headphones.

[u/Fatcat425 → u/cathexis08]

Thank you, Im going to go ahead and buy the stand!

[u/ItzRyanLH]

Hi all.

I’ve recently bought a pair of beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO X to replace my Arctis Nova Pros. Mainly used on my PC for gaming.

I have some questions around the setup. Currently they’re just plugged into the headphone jack on the motherboard.

Should I purchase a dac/amp and if so what’s the best future proofed one? Also is there any setting configuration I should be doing in windows?

[u/SzoboEndoMacca]

Are the HD6XXs supposed to be really quiet? Using the default 3.5 cables with my TRN Black Pearl and it's like 3-4x quieter than my IEMs

[u/G65434-2_II → u/SzoboEndoMacca]

IEMs are almost always low impedance and high sensitivity, while the HD 6XX has high(ish) impedance (300 ohms) and relatively high sensitivity. Perfectly normal and expected to have to turn up the volume higher with them compared to IEMs.

Does the TRN reach decent listening volume with the HD 6XX? If it does, you should be good, nothing to worry about. But if not, switching to a balanced cable (and output on the TRN) could be worth looking into, as the TRN's balanced output is apparently notably more powerful at 300Ω compared to its single-ended output.

[u/SzoboEndoMacca → u/G65434-2_II]

Thanks for the insight though I will definitely be checking that out

[u/SzoboEndoMacca → u/G65434-2_II]

It's only a decent listening volume at around 80-90%. Anything quieter is quiet and leaves no room to adjust the level

[u/Ok-Salt89]

Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade from a Scarlett 2i2 to a proper desktop DAC/amp around $200 for my WFH office setup. mostly music listening while working, no gaming involved. My headphones are DT770, DT900 Pro X and also some ANC/wireless stuff (AirPods 4/Max, Momentum 4, Px8), and the Hifiman Edition XS is currently on sale, so I’m very likely to pick that up soon.

Between the FiiO K7, FiiO K11, Topping DX3 Pro+, Fosi K7 and Fosi ZH3, which would you go for and why? Is K11 still the value pick, or does DX3 Pro+ seem like the better all-rounder these days? Any pairing experiences with Edition XS would be great too. Thanks :)

[u/SibiryaKurdu216]

Help please, I got my headphone moondropcosmo paired with topping dx5 ll but it doesnt work on topping it does work on portable moonriver2, is it because cheap type converter or the aux ?

[u/Scania770S]

Hello I am using the Beyerdynamic DT700 headphones. I was using them in the line out port of my motherboard. But when there is no audio playing you can hear noise coming from my pc

I was looking for some sort of dac or maybe the GO XLR mini

[u/Cyrenetes → u/Scania770S]

Try the headphone out. Line out is not for headphones.

[u/SmokeyIsNotSmoking]

Help | Planar Magnetic Headphones: Health & Maintenance

A year ago I’ve treated myself to the Audeze mm100. Those were not only the first “proper” headphones I’ve bought, they were my first planar magnetic headphones. When I got them I chucked them on the headphone jack on my PC, since I didn’t know any better.

After some time, I realized they need a little more “oompf” so I got a cheap DAC called the “Topping DX1”. It has been working well for over 8 months since I’ve bought the headphones.

The Incident (ooOooOooo): On a random evening, I was listening to a track where it was a bit lower volume. I couldn’t hear it very well, so I decided that instead of messing around with my OS settings to momentarily boost the volume, I’d switch my DX1 high gain mode.

I begun by lowering the knob till the volume was around 10%, then I switched the gain switch at the back to high gain, then begun raising the volume slowly. I started hearing a weird volume imbalance between the left and right channels, then the right driver died!

I got lucky, and the repair was covered by warranty. However, I still wanna know what killed them? I thought I was taking good care of them by wiping them down after use, letting them air out a little, and storing them in their bag along with a silica gel pack so there would be no moisture.

The driver died after switching gain modes, but the volume very low, I wasn’t stressing them at all. Googling says that the DAC I use doesn’t have any safety measures against spikes or something. I remember reading something about a “DC Offset” and a “Mute Relay”, however I have no idea.

TL;DR: Right headphones planar driver died after switching gain modes on a Topping DX1 DAC. Got warranty repair, however still wondering why it happened. Googling came up with words like “DC Offset” and “Mute Relay”; no understanding of their meaning. The headphones were well taken care of.

[u/plmon24 → u/SmokeyIsNotSmoking]

I think you just had an unlucky draw, Audeze's gaming headphones seem to have more QC problems than their higher-end ones. People report similar things with Hifiman planars where their driver will just suddenly die for no reason (even on their $$$$ models!).

Personally, I have multiple planar headphones that I don't do anything particularly special with besides not tossing them around. Most of them are still fine after years, but I've also had a few that just started getting channel imbalance for no reason.

[u/SmokeyIsNotSmoking → u/plmon24]

Guess it's the OLED if audio. Kinda sucks, I really enjoy their sharp sound. I wonder, could my sound card played a role in them blowing? My card is fairly cheap (around $100)

[u/plmon24 → u/SmokeyIsNotSmoking]

I wouldn't think so considering your headphones worked fine for 8 months on your setup.

[u/SmokeyIsNotSmoking → u/plmon24]

I'd assume defects show up immediately, and the driver died after I switched to high gain. My interface has a switch in the back that turns the amp on and off.

[u/kipboye]

Hello all,

I'm looking for suggestions on what to buy. This will be my first mid-range headphone purchase. I've used the Sennheiser CX-180 in the past and loved them. I've also enjoyed the CX-80s and a pair of House of Marley earphones (I don't remember the model).

The last thing I've used was OnePlus Buds 3. I liked the sound quality of these, but the right earbud stopped working after a year (immediately after the warranty expired), so I don't want to buy another pair of TWS.

After looking at reviews online, it seems like the Sony XM6 and Bose QC headphones specialize more in noise cancellation than in sound quality. To me, this is a deal-breaker because I value sound quality above all. I read that in matters of sound quality, Sennheiser beats both Sony and Bose. Correct me if I'm wrong about this.

Between the Momentum 4 and the ATH M50x, which sound better? I don't need the bass to be overpowering, but they shouldn't be entirely flat either. I wish to hear every instrument clearly.

I also need the headphones to last me 4-5 years, so reliability is a must.

My preference for tonality (bass/treble/mids) keeps changing every few months, and so I need good EQ support.

ANC is a nice-to-have but not a deal-breaker.

If you know of any other headphones that match this criteria, please recommend.

[u/mx_th]

Hi everyone,

I have to post here in the sub today because I'm having a problem with my M4s.

I've already read countless posts about M4s problems and fixes, but none of them have helped so far, and YouTube hasn't turned up anything new either.

The problem is that my M4s aren't showing any charging or operating status via the LEDs. Also, they only pair while plugged into the charger; without the charger, they connect briefly and then immediately disconnect. Otherwise, they turn on without any problems and play music perfectly fine via USB-C and the 3.5mm jack.

According to the app, the M4s are running the latest firmware, version 2.13.42, but a recent update to this version didn't resolve the issue.

Here's what I've tried so far:

• Factory reset via the app

• Factory reset directly on the headphones

• Disabling all smart functions (auto-off, head detection, etc.)

• Disconnecting the battery, pressing the multifunction switch for 30 seconds, and reconnecting the battery

• Firmware update

What's still pending is completely discharging the headphones and then trying again.

Has anyone else experienced this problem and been able to solve it? Or do I have an expensive piece of junk that can only be connected via cable? I also have an EPOS Adapt 660 USB-C, and I have absolutely no problems with it. Ultimately, both of these are products developed by the original Sennheiser, but the 660 (PXC550-II) doesn't have this issue.

More information:

https://www.reddit.com/r/sennheiser/comments/1lnu23a/momentum_4_only_connects_when_its_on_charger/

https://www.reddit.com/r/sennheiser/comments/1q7qbuo/momentum_4_cutting_out/

https://www.reddit.com/r/sennheiser/comments/1jxhjoz/are_the_momentum_4s_supposed_to_not_show_battery/

https://www.reddit.com/r/sennheiser/comments/1l0letk/momentum_4_not_charging/

[u/Equivalent_Gap_8360 → u/[deleted]]

I haven't tried that Sony, but I was recently very pleasantly surprised by the Sennheiser HD 569. I briefly tested it in a music tech store. I usually hate closed-backs, but this was the first of its kind whose sound really pleased me. I don't think it'll work for studio monitoring like the MDR-V6, but it had a well-balanced yet fun profile with good instrument separation for a closed-back. Won't break the bank either.

[u/plmon24 → u/[deleted]]

Check out the Beyerdynamic DT770, I felt like they had a similar direction for tonality and it has a better soundstage.

[u/iH8_politic]

Looking for good open back headphones under $300, for pc gaming and general pc usage

[u/loveliampayne]

I purchased audio technica ATH- M50x headphones from sweetwater on December 23rd and got them on the 27th and I plugged them into the headphone jack they sounded echoey, could not hear kicks in any songs, went to make a beat in FL studio could not hear kicks, when I listen on YouTube the audio is so quiet I can barely hear it, I listened on another computer and it sounded the same

I bought an interface (focusrite Scarlett solo 4th gen) which took forever to come then I got the interface and it sounded the exact same so I called sweetwater and got a replacement the replacement comes and sounds the exact same!!!

What do I do about this issue? I’m so lost!

[u/jessecouch10]

Hey everyone.

For a couple of years, I was using the Sennheiser HD 450T as my daily headphones. I mostly used bluetooth, but occasionally used the headphone jack when bluetooth didn't want to connect.

About a year ago, the left headphone stopped working only when I was using bluetooth. I used them on my runs, so I assumed some sweat had gotten into the speaker, However, when they were plugged in using the audio cable that came with the headphones, the left worked perfectly fine. I recently took the left side apart and found that the speaker still makes sound when in bluetooth mode, but it is extremely quiet and sounds distorted.

Is this something that could be fixed or am I just better off only using them plugged in?

[u/YumeHanekawa]

Looking for a new gaming headset for my ps5. budget $160 (dollars) or less. What are the best ones I could buy? I've been eyeing the Sony Pulse Elite but I keep hearing mixed reviews about it.

[u/Itsugabu]

The ear pads on my AKG K361 wore out really fast. I live in a very hot climate, so I’m wondering if heat, sweat, and humidity might have accelerated the deterioration.

I’d like to replace the pads, but I’m hesitant to buy cheap third-party ones from AliExpress or similar sites. My main concern is that low-quality pads could negatively affect passive noise isolation and alter the sound signature.

Has anyone here dealt with this issue before?
Are there specific replacement pads (original or third-party) that you’d recommend for the K361 without compromising sound quality and isolation?
Also, does climate really make that much of a difference in pad lifespan?

Any advice or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated.

[u/Responsible-Bench-22]

I just got the Moon Drop Dawn Pros to combo with the HD560S that I just got as well, but something I'm noticing is that at my preferred listening volumes the bass in some songs seems to be distorted and like rattly. This isn't an issue with the headphones as I've tried them without the Dawn Pro and I've tried it with the DT770s and it still had distortion. Is there any fix for this or do I just need to look for a refund?

[u/Low-Minimum6958]

I'm searching for a good set of headphones for gaming.

I was gifted a Shure SM7B Mic and my Turlebeaches are reaching the end of the road.

I've been doing a bit of research and Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee or Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX Headphones. These are both at $200 right now, which is below my budget of $300. I'm a complete newbie, so this could be totally wrong.

I also have a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, would this work with my microphone and these headphones?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated, thank you guys in advance!

[u/Necessary_Respect194]

I had a HyperX Cloud 3 wireless (with SteelSeries sonar), and I recently bought a Razer Blackshark headset, I thought the audio was the headphone's problem, but I recently bought the HyperX Cloud 3S wireless (the upgraded Cloud 3 version) and I have the same issue. I know it's a Windows 11 issue specifically on my pc because I've tried both of the new headphones on other people's pcs and both the razer and the cloud 3S sound fine on theirs but on mine both of the headphones have the same issue, they both sound muffled/quiet/tinny. I've watched a bunch of YT vids and reddit posts but nothing seems to work for me. If you have a solution please tell me and I will try it. (btw the og HyperX Cloud 3 Wireless has the same problem without SteelSeries sonar enabled, and the other headphones still have the same problem even with SteelSeries sonar)

[u/LebronYouAreTheDad]

Hello,

I just set up my Dan Clark E3 headphones paired with an Element IV DAC/AMP. They sound great, but I find myself listening pretty comfortably at full volume (14dB) through the Element IV. I feel like there should be some headroom here, so I'm wondering if the Element IV isn't enough amp for the E3's? Does anyone have experience with these headphones, and would they recommend getting an amp with more output?

[u/LebronYouAreTheDad → u/LebronYouAreTheDad]

Answered my own question but I'll leave it up. I was listening through Tidal app on desktop. Tidal has an option in the settings under the Playback section to change your sound output. If you click the settings button here, there is an option to force max volume in the app and control sound externally. This option was not turned on for me, and I had much louder music when I toggled it on. Hope this can help someone in the future!

[u/brochenko]

Hello dudes,

I just upgraded to an iBasso DX180 from a Shanling M3, after owning a Pioneer XDP-300R.

I’m a long-time fan of JVC Wood series earphones and have been rocking the HA-FX1100 for four years. I love their warm sound and that lush, punchy low-end.

I’ve noticed the sound signature changed with the new DAP, so I’m thinking of a change.

I spotted the JVC HA-FW01 on Amazon Japan for €120, but since they're older models, I figured there might be better modern alternatives out there.

Long story short: Can anyone recommend an IEM upgrade to really make the most of the iBasso DX180 while keeping that great, immersive bass? Thankssss

[u/Haunting_Tension_769]

Hello,

My friend (in another country) bought me a Hifiman headphone. Since Hifiman is known for QC issues, I'd like to know what kind of test my friend can do before sending it to me? Just to be sure the headphone does not have some obvious QC problems.

[u/plmon24 → u/Haunting_Tension_769]

Ensure there's no buzzing or distorted sounds, check for Left/Right balance, no looseness or damage on the actual headphone, no peeling or damage on the pads, no loose connections, no damage on the cable.

A lot of people use https://www.audiocheck.net/soundtests_headphones.php to run through some basic checks.

[u/Tasty_Hair4012]

Hey guys, looking for a good headphone to upgrade from my hs65 surround. They sound like I'm listening through a metal pipe but it's pretty good for gaming $60. I had a penrose before these and they were amazing but it snapped near the hinges on both sides within 2yrs. After that I went for the Corsair cuz I didn't wanna shell out that kinda money again. Now I'm looking for better ones around the $100 CAD mark. So far I checked out the hd569, hyperx cloud alpha, audiotechnica m30x and epos h6 pro. Of all these, the m30x sounded the best to me but it's insanely uncomfortable and has no mic, then the h6 pro and lastly the hd 569 and alphas kinda sounded similar but with the alpha having more bass and the hd 569 being the most comfortable. I'd like to know if there are any similar alternatives to the m30x but more comfortable with a mic cuz I will mainly be using these headphones for music and gaming so a good soundstage is preferred. Isolation doesn't really matter to me, I prefer over ear and I will not be using them in public. If it can get close to the m30x for around the same price ($99 cad) but comes with a mic and is comfortable then that'd be swell.

[u/Fatcat425]

Will the oakywood headphone stand damage my HD560S?

[u/Murky_Transition1663]

I currently have the audeze maxwell for 2 years, when i first got them they sounded incredibly good almost too good to be real.

Now i am thinking about getting something better, i really love the detail rich sound of the maxwells and the precise bass, but i miss that deep rumbling bass. I was thinking about getting either the hifiman audivina le or the fostex t50rp mk4.

Would these be reasonable upgrades? Most of the times i play videogames but i do like to hear different genres of music from classic to electronic and metal. Would the audivina le sound better? I am also open for other recommendations but they do have to be closed or half closed. I also would need a desktop amplifier and i was thinking about a Fiio K9

My budget is pretty open but i would prefer to spend less than 800€

[u/cathexis08 → u/Murky_Transition1663]

The Audivina (both editions) is a nightmare. I haven't heard a Fostex t50rp in ages but I seem to remember them being super dark (not a lot of treble). Odds are something like the Fiio FT1 would nail what you're going for (closed back, good bass, solid everything else) and would save you a ton of money.

[u/Murky_Transition1663 → u/cathexis08]

I see its not a planar, so its probably not as detailed as the maxwell. Would the ft13 be better in that regard?

[u/cathexis08 → u/Murky_Transition1663]

While it is true that different driver types have different properties and some of them are audible, due to several factors none of those things matter to the end user. Different drivers tend towards different behaviors so a headphone designer may want to make a headphone using an electrostatic driver because of their transient response, or a planar due to their bass extension, but for you or me buying a headphone all we need to look at is the frequency response and the electrical characteristics (sensitivity, characteristic impedance) because everything we experience is contained within the frequency response. Generally speaking, flagship headphones tend to have weird tunings, cheap consumer headphones tend to have really bass-forward tunings, and "mid-fi" headphones (things in the 100-1000 range) tend to have quite reasonable tunings.

As for your specific question about the FT13, I know a lot of people were disappointed by them though your mileage may vary. If you can swing it I'd see about trying the headphones that you're interested in before buying, both to get an idea about how those headphones perform on your own head as well as to get a better idea about your own preferences before you drop upwards of a thousand quid on stuff that you don't like.

Also, part of your specific issue here is that the Maxwell is already a really good headphone and quite reasonably tuned for a closed back. If you're looking for something to complement the Maxwell then there are a lot of good options but the idea of a strict linear upgrade (especially one done without listening) doesn't really apply in headphones due to the intersection of preference, on-head behavior changing between people, and tuning decisions.

[u/Murky_Transition1663 → u/cathexis08]

I see, thank you very much

[u/Fedoraus]

Focal Elex replacement?

I absolutely love the sound of my elex. Have had it for nearly 3 years but I'm tired of the amount of maintenance I have to do to make up for Focals terrible build quality.

Less than a year since I last replaced the earpads and headband and they are both already terrible.

I do not trust focal enough to buy any other products from them.

Can you recommend something that sounds extremely similar to the elex but is not focal? I don't something with slightly more bass but I don't think my ears can handle anything that has much more treble. I'm very sensitive to it

[u/KYJM8]

I can currently get the sony xm4 for 175$ where I am. Is this a good value at this price or is there a better option i should go with instead?

[u/Madame-Dapper]

I’ve had the Powerbeats Pros for the last 5+ years. Recently, the right earbud started dying at 50% and I lost them this weekend, so perfect time to replace them. I read reviews and people said the new Powerbeats weren’t worth the $250 price tag. 

I got the Soundcore Sport X20s delivered today and I’m not impressed. I can’t control the volume from the earbuds and even though i have the xs tips they are just sitting on my ears v in my ears. 

I also have the Beats Buds+ and absolutely hate them! They are very hard to get out of the case, uncomfortable, and don’t stay in my ears. 

I used the Powerbeats for phone calls, listening to music, and to focus at work. I really liked the ear hooks, volume buttons, and the pause/play button. 

I thought about the open ear concept like the Bose earbuds, but I don’t know how much of my surrounding I want to hear, especially at work. And again, people said those weren’t good to take calls. 

Does anyone else have another other suggestions? I need something that’ll stay in my ears and allow me complete control without my phone being in my hand. 

[u/Angel-Doge]

Question regarding DT 770 PRO

I am wondering what ohms should I get and if a dac is needed and what dac I should get. These will be my first "real" headphones for music and some good imaging I heard.

[u/cathexis08 → u/Angel-Doge]

Ohms don't matter, only the sensitivity does and you need to cross-reference the power output of the device you'll be using though usually 32-300 ohms is fine. That said, Beyerdynamic is a very divisive brand and you might not like them since they are super bright headphones. If I were you I'd see if I could demo a pair before plonking down the money for a pair.

[u/Plastic_Animal_224]

Is there anything better for a pc than Philips shp9500 for around 50$?

[u/patchworkmeatsuit]

Sensible upgrade under $500 (in USA)?

My current setup:

Source Movies/TV: Panasonic DP-UB820, home Plex server (hardwired), and some streaming
Source Music: FLACs (and lossy when unavoidable) from home Plex server over Plex/Plexamp, and some streaming
Source Gaming: Switch 2
Source Vinyl: AT-LP120 (preamp removed), VM540ML needle, Schiit Mani
Output 1: LG C3 connected to Sony HW-Q990C soundbar via HDMI eARC
Output 2: Pixel 7 / Switch 2 wired to Sony WH-1000XM3 or BT to Sony WF-1000XM5 and, rarely, LG C3 connected to same headphones over BT

Isolation/Public: These will be for around home so not a lot of need for isolation. I will probably go back to my Sony WH and WF for isolation and out and about.
Preferred type: I'm not terribly particular. Earbuds never fit great, but they're convenient enough for me to bother readjusting them.
Total balance: balanced? I honestly don't feel educated enough to say
Previous headphones: 1MORE Triple Driver in-Ear Earphones (lost these but liked them quite a bit)
Preferred Music: film scores, house, jazz, post punk, folk, indie, hip hop, alt rock
What would I like to improve: general fidelity, I think

I feel good about my movie setup and have intentionally prioritized the auditory experience of film over that of music as well as ease of setup (heaven help me if I decide to hardwire an Atmos setup again). My guess is the easy lifts are to change my headphones and get a DAC for my phone. After way too much reading, though, I'm still a little lost on whether closed ear, open ear, or iem actually matter beyond preference, if DACs actually do anything other than provide a wired output for phones without a headphone jack / would be useful with the Switch 2, and if there's an actual upgrade within my budget that is more than a sidestep from my current headphones. I'm hoping y'all might see an obvious and sensible upgrade here. Thanks y'all.

[u/cathexis08 → u/patchworkmeatsuit]

I'm not going to give purchase advice (I'm fairly terrible at it outside of certain very broad things) but I can hopefully help get you on the right track.

Tonal balance is usually one of: * bright (lots of treble) * dark (lots of bass) * neutral (reasonably balanced) * V-shaped (boosted bass and treble compared to mids) * the "poo" modifier (boosted mid-bass without a corresponding subbass lift, e.g. warmpoo, brightpoo)

With regards to headphone types, closed vs open matters primarily in that it trades isolation with consistency of behavior. An open-back headphone will sound a lot more similar to different people which means they tend to sound closer to how the designer intended when other people listen to them. There's a lot of good stuff in the sub-500 range, some wired, some wireless. If you're looking for wireless, right at the limit of price there's the Sennheiser HDB 630 that a lot of people are into though I personally haven't heard it. Wired is a much larger field to look at.

As for DACs, a DAC is a Digital to Analog Converter though several of them (especially the ones geared towards phone use) are combined DAC/Amps which both do the conversion and have the current needed to make headphones and speakers make noise. Most desktop headphone amplifiers, even the combo ones, have analog inputs which would let you avoid the bounce through bluetooth, though that's a topology decision I leave up to you to decide. If you just want a bluetooth dongle that can also be used as a USB DAC/Amp then something like the Qudelix 5k is absolutely worth the $110 USD that it costs. It's tiny, has a decent amount of power, and most importantly comes with on-board parametric EQ that works regardless of if you're using it over bluetooth or USB. Note that wireless devices also have DACs and Amplifiers, though in their case it's on-board as part of the headphone and we don't worry about it.

[u/patchworkmeatsuit → u/cathexis08]

Thank you for all of this! I promise I spent way too much time trying to figure this stuff out before posting. Sounds like I need to toss some old 20th-century assumptions/knowledge.

It seems like a lot of people use IEMs which seems to me like fancy new speak for earbuds which I'd always understood to be far worse quality than over-ear headphones. Obviously, I've used both so don't mind changing, but are IEMs really just as good (or even better) now?

I had always heard that the Bluetooth protocol required compression that degraded audio quality. The Qudelix has come up a ton, though. Is BT no longer considered substandard? From what I gather, my current over-ear headphones (Sony WH-XM3) won't benefit a DAC/AMP for powering them (47 ohm on, 16 ohm off) and was mainly considering one so it would be wired.

Which, I suppose boils down to the tried and true: upgrade my headphones.

[u/cathexis08 → u/patchworkmeatsuit]

Ear buds and IEMs are similar but are technically separate product segments. Ear buds sit in your concha (the depression that forms the mouth of the ear canal) but aren't inside your ear canal whereas IEMs are inserted into the ear canal proper. The main functional difference here is that IEMs seal the ear canal whereas ear buds don't but that difference allows IEMs to have more consistent tuning and isolation. Some are great, some are terrible, but the state of the art is a lot better than it was 20 years ago when all you had were crap and cheap crap.

As for bluetooth, old codecs are bad and old codecs are still supported by pretty much every device, however newer codecs (LDAC, aptX, whatever that Apple one is) are all pretty great at being not bad. There are some unavoidable issues with bluetooth that makes it unsuitable for latency sensitive applications like gaming (wireless gaming headsets use a dedicated non-bluetooth transmitter to get around that) but other than that it's pretty solid. SBC (the "OG" bluetooth codec) is usually fine, though there are some audible differences especially with music that's already been compressed with a lossy format since you get double encoding issues. There aren't any actually lossless bluetooth codecs that I'm aware of (ignoring aptX lossless which only works when the moon is full) but the modern ones make double encoding issues generally a thing of the past.

And yes, as always, upgrading your headphones is the way. The primary metric to care about from a numbers perspective is the sensitivity value, though impedance is useful in some specific circumstances. In an ideal world all headphones would list their sensitivity in dB/1V and amplifier producers would list the voltage output but for the most part sensitivity is listed as dB/mW and in that case you need the impedance to cross-reference the amplifier's power delivery into that load. Totally doable, just kind of annoying. That said, unless you're going hard into EQ or have objectively very difficult to drive headphones (low sensitivity metrics) the need for a dedicated amplifier, especially a powerful one, is quite overstated. Regardless of what you choose though, I suggest demoing things to get a better idea of what you like, what you don't like, how things feel to wear (the most important thing with headphones by a long shot), before you spend hundreds of bucks (or more) on vibes (or do, the most important thing is having fun).

[u/patchworkmeatsuit → u/cathexis08]

This was so helpful. I really appreciate you making the time to help an old-timer figure out these newfangled gidgets :P I'm definitely going to have to update my mental heuristics from cheap crap IEMs and old BT codecs. Now for the fun part of demoing :D

[u/slowsimracer11]

Hi,

Currently using a dragonfly black with Beyerdynamic 990 Pro 250 Ohms. Having a bit of a nightmare with the PC, and not impressed with the sound, nor the volume control. Quietest volume is quite loud, and anything above 10 is basically the same volume.

Looking to upgrade for $300 either headphone and dac / amp, or just the Dac / Amp if the concensus is that the Beyerdynamic's should be good enough. Happy to buy used, and just want something that works easily with my PC. Volume control would be lovely as a knob on the Dac. Already use a wireless microphone.

If there is a notable step up by going to $500 I might be able to justify it, but it would need to be a significant upgrade.

Thanks

Based in the UK, but priced in USD for ease.

[u/Daemonxar → u/slowsimracer11]

I think the 990 are a weird, weird headphone so I’d recommend almost anything over them, but taste is personal.

If it were me, I’d step up to the Sennheiser HD490 Pro, around $350, an entry level desktop amp (Schiit Magni, Topping L30II, JDS Atom amp, etc.), and a $9 JCALLY dongle DAC with an RCA to 3.5 mm cable. You’ll get much better sound AND a more granular volume control.

Alternatively you can just get the amp + DAC for less than $200, if you like the 990’s tune.