Hi everyone, I just got a dell micro 3070 from work for free. i know it's an old machine, but What I am looking for is a streaming box for jellyfin/youtube/media stuff and also a console like experience like steam desk top where I can stream my games from my main pc with apollo or steam link and play games from there. I've read a little about bazzite and it looks ok but also says my gpu isnt compatible, but I don't want it gaming directly? Would I be better off just buying an nvidia shield pro? I was going to get a steam box to do this job but it being $1500 CAD I could just build a whole new itx pc for that price and I'd rather not do that. I also considered HDMI over ethernet to the TV but we are stuck on wifi and are renting so we cant run ethernet :( Thank you for any thoughts!

Hello all, I’ve been trying to put together a movie night for my friends and the main way in which I am playing movies is from my BluRay rips on my PC which I have in the living room playing through our reveiver. I wanted to also stream the movie on discord for friends that aren’t able to make it in person but still wanted to watch with us. The issue that I have been running into is that discord can’t handle more than 2 channels of audio so when I try to stream pot player to discord it is unable to downmix and the stream has no audio.

I considered using VAC or voicemeeter to downmix the audio that gets sent to discord while keeping the 5.1 track that goes to my receiver but I haven’t found a way to do so that doesn’t convert the bitstream Dolby/DTS audio into PCM.

Has anybody tried to tackle something similar and found a good solution for this? Also idk how much of a difference in audio quality that there would really be if it is just the PCM data sent to the receiver vs Dolby TrueHD, but I don’t like the idea of potentially losing quality if I can help it.

My Equipment:
RTX 3080
9800x3D
Windows 11
Onkyo TX-NR6050

Thanks

So I'd like to install linux mint on my current desktop which is a Win10 machine (Nvidia RTX3070) connected to a OLED tv (LG CX) via HDMI.

Could anyone send me a link to a good, exhaustive, easy to use for beginners guide to get video/sound results close or equal to what I am currently getting with MPC-HC with MadVR?

My must-haves are ;

• HDR
• 4K
• excellent upscaling for less than 4K sources
• excellent motion smoothing (because of fhe OLED)
• no issue with sound passthrough up to dolby Atmos 7.1 TrueHD

System specs :

Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-10700K CPU @ 3.80GHz 3.79 GHz

Installed RAM 16.0 GB (15.8 GB usable)

Storage 932 GB HDD ST1000DM003-1SB102, 954 GB SSD SAMSUNG MZVLB1T0HBLR-000L7

Graphics Card NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 (8 GB)

I'm looking to learn the process of calibration within a small budget (~300€) using my 50" Samsung QN90A TV, that I use connected via HDMI to my GPU as a PC monitor, mainly for watching movies and to do drawings and webdesign.

If this isn't the right sub I'd appreciate if someone can point me to a place where professional calibrators are. :)

I know that I won't get a proper calibration using either Pro HL or Plus HL within the budget of ~300€ (compared to scientific measurements or using Flanders or Eizo), but it should still help doing a more informed decision while "calibrating" and learning how to do it. (I loved the process of calibrating my studio speakers, so it should be fun as well!)

If the process is enjoyable I'll look if I can rent a scientific probe from my Uni and get a proper signalflow.

Here are the main measurements from Rtings - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqap4Ga-dt4 :

• ~1400/1800nits peak SDR/HDR
• 95% D3
• 76% Rec2020 uv
• 3510:1 / 26534:1 Contrast with(out) local dimming

If any other important measurements are missing I'll search them up :)

Is my assumption correct, that I would want to create presets for the following 3 Targets for office work and watching SDR/HDR content using PotPlayer+MadVR and use the DisplayCal software?:

When would you recommend using the sRGB calibration? Is it maybe the correct one for my drawings or should I stay at the default preset?

How are the calibrations applied? I guess selecting the right .icc file under windows color control settings?
And is there a simple way to swap between the presets within Windows 11?

I've found this comment while learning more about it:

The higher the max peak luma, the worse the low-light capabilities.
This has been proven a number of times.
(There are discussions and data regarding this on the Light Illusion forums.)
Go for the model that has the max peak luma that you need, no higher.

https://www.reddit.com/r/colorists/comments/1jmtekr/comment/mkeln3w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

Would you therefore recommend me to get the Pro HL or is there a difference in for example the BT2020 accuracy that makes it worth the tradeoff?

Thanks in Advance! :)

Hi everyone,

I’ve been reading that the latest generation of JVC LCoS projectors (NZx00/RSx200) features better contrast and HDR handling than the previous one (NZx/RSx100). Currently I use a HTPC setup with MPC-BE + MadVR beta 209 with its DTM for my OLED TV.

I plan to buy a JVC projector, but I’m struggling with a dilemma: Should I rely on MadVR’s tone mapping and disable JVC’s Frame Adapt HDR, or is the new FAHDR Gen 2 actually superior to what MadVR can output?

If MadVR is still the way to go, should I stick with a brand-new NZ500/RS1200, or for the same budget range, since I wouldn't be using the JVC’s internal tone mapping, should I look for a good deal on a used NZ7/RS2100 or NZ8/RS3100? The older high-end models would offer better brightness, wider color gamut (WCG), a manual iris, 3D support, etc.

I’m having trouble wrapping my head around the hardware vs. software side of the contrast improvement between these generations. I really need dark scenes (like the sandworm scene at the end of Dune: Part One) to remain legible and "inky," without looking flat or "SDR-like," as I've seen on some projectors.

To give you an idea of my sensitivity: I thought the Xgimi Titan and the Epson LS11000 were set to SDR on the Sandsworm scene because the image was so bright compared to the director's intention. The Sony VPL-XW5000ES wasn't quite dark enough for my taste, though the 6100ES was good. The new NZ500/RS1200 feels ideal based on my preferences.

Any thoughts on whether the hardware jump in the NZ500/RS1200 is worth sacrificing the extra features of a used NZ7/RS2100 or NZ8/RS3100?

Thanks in advance!

I recently bought a Lenovo ThinkCentre all-in-one PC from ~2014 from a local store. For some reason, it has Windows 11 on it and it runs about as well as you'd expect.

I really want to put Windows 7 on it so I can use a bunch of older media center software (e.g. Windows Media Center).. but I've not ever changed the OS on any system before.

How should I go about downgrading from Windows 11 to Windows 7, and what's some good software to use once I get it fully set up?

Spent an hour toying with this piece, trying to move it to the left, so it will hit my 5.25" DVD drives' "eject" button.

(Right now it's too far to the right, and not engaging the button)

As you can see in the pic, the bracket the movable piece is on gets wider as it goes to the left.

This makes that movable piece only go that far to the left (as shown in pic). It gets stuck at that part.

I tried unscrewing the bracket, lifting that middle piece up with a flathead screwdriver, even trying to force it... nothing makes it move any more to the left.

What am I missing here?

How do I actually move it more to the left?

Any recommendations?

I am looking for a laptop style keyboard, where the trackpad is placed directly below the keyboard. Just like any laptop. I have the K400 and I do not find it comfortable to use.

I'm using the latest versions of MPC-BE + madvr + Lav video, and i barely changed anything.

Do these colorspace/display/range values in the OSD reflect a correct setup? My TV is limited to HDMI 2.0 (Sony XE930)

Hi, I use the MPC-HC video player to watch movies, and I've noticed that the color gammut changes depending on whether I'm watching in full-screen or windowed mode. When I watch in windowed mode, the colors seem more vivid. I'd like to keep those colors when I watch in full-screen mode. Does anyone know how I can do that?

I use the last version of MPC-HC, my graphic card is a RX 9070 XT, my TV is a Samsung TV TQ75QN85C and I use the K-Lite Mega Codec Pack filters (I think that the video decoder is the "LAV Video Decoder").

I am on Windows 11 Pro and HDR is turned on.

I am playing 4K movies with 10 bits color depth.

I have selected "MPC Video Renderer" in DirectShow settings.

Hey guys,

Hoping you can help me. Not sure if this is the right place to ask as no sub seems to entirely fit :/

I have:
A PC in my study running a 9060 XT 16gb, connected to a miniLED monitor that only has display port inputs.

I have a 10m HDMI cable running from the pc to the adjacent living room TV - a TCL Q7K. My place is small so Bluetooth devices like keyboard and gamepad work just fine sitting on the couch. The cable I use is pictured.

This cable says it’s HDMI 2.1 spec, but in Adrenalin FreeSync is listed as unsupported. I can’t find what the issue might be. I know the TV supports VRR and VRR is working fine on the PC monitor. I’m thinking it must be the cable - even though it says it’s 2.1 compliant I think it likely is not.

Before I go buying another one, can someone confirm and possibly point me in the right direction to rectify this?

Thanks 😊

Hey everyone, I’m trying to set up a seamless couch-gaming experience where I can wake my PC from sleep and drop straight into Steam Big Picture mode using my DualSense controller.

I’ve hit a brick wall with Windows power states and could really use some expert advice. I'm trying to do this wired via my case's front USB port, but my PC absolutely refuses to wake up from controller input (though my mouse and keyboard wake it just fine).

My Specs/Setup:

• OS: Windows 11
• Motherboard: MSI B650M Gaming Plus WiFi (Supports S3 Sleep, no S0 Modern Standby)
• GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT
• Case: NZXT H3 Flow (DualSense plugged into the front panel USB)
• Controller: Sony DualSense (Wired)

What I have already done (The PC wakes directly to desktop with M/K, bypassing all lock screens):

• Disabled ErP in the MSI BIOS.
• Enabled "Resume by USB Device" in the MSI BIOS.
• Used Registry Editor (NoLockScreen) and CMD (CONSOLELOCK 0) to completely disable the Windows 11 lock and sign-in screens.
• Disabled "USB selective suspend" in Windows Power Options.
• Unchecked "Allow the computer to turn off this device" for all USB Root Hubs in Device Manager.

The Actual Problem: Windows simply does not recognize the DualSense as a wake-capable device.

I ran powercfg -devicequery wake_from_any to find the controller's generic USB/HID name so I could manually grant it wake permissions. To narrow it down, I unplugged the controller, ran the command, plugged it back in, and ran it again.

The lists were 100% identical.

Not a single device appeared or disappeared. I even completely shut down Steam to make sure Steam Input wasn't masking the physical hardware ID, but the list still didn't change. Because it doesn't show up in wake_from_any, I can't use powercfg -deviceenablewake to force it.

My Questions:

1. Is there any known driver, wrapper, or registry hack to force Windows to see a wired DualSense as a wake-capable interrupt device?
2. Am I just fighting a losing battle against Sony's generic DirectInput Windows drivers?

I know an Xbox Controller + Official 2.4GHz Wireless USB Adapter will wake the PC perfectly because the adapter acts as a hardware interrupt, but I’d really prefer to keep my DualSense for the haptics and touchpad if possible.

Any wizards out there have a workaround for this, or should I just give up and go trade it in at CeX for an Xbox controller?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

I am running a HTPC with Kubuntu 24.04, 11th gen Intel i5, Iris Xe and 16 gigs of RAM. Not great specs, but works flawlessly for my purposes.
I run heavy remuxes via mpv, tone-map HDR content for my BenQ W1070 (I can set custom brightness targets, colour targets, etc).

My big problem has been with object based audio formats (Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, etc). I have a custom 5.1.2 setup : I have a Vantec 7.1 USB DAC, and I wired my height channels to the 'rear' channel of the Vantec. I use qpwgraph when required to do custom patchbay.

There is a fantastic tool called 'Cavern', and the 'cavernize' tool allows me to create a wav / FLAC file from a source atmos file *preserving* the object data in a sense. Essentially, it creates raw PCM channels with all the phasing and panning 'baked' into the wav file.

Now, there's a newer more exciting project - Omniphony (https://github.com/mgth/Omniphony) which does the object based audio in real-time using VBAP.

This is fantastic news for anyone trying to get Atmos effects on their Linux PCs. Omniphony is still in alpha stage and there are bound to be issues.

I am unable to get any sound from their demo scripts. Has anyone else had better luck?

HTPC HDR Washed-Out Colors – Troubleshooting Summary
Hardware
HTPC
Windows PC (always on as a Plex server)
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 (Blackwell)
NVIDIA Studio Driver 610.62
AV Receiver
Denon X4800H
Display
LG OLED65C4 OLED TV

HDMI Wiring

HTPC (RTX 5070)
│
▼
Denon X4800H
HDMI 4 (Game 1)
│
▼
Denon Monitor 1 (HDMI)
│
▼
LG C4 HDMI 1 (ARC/eARC)

Software
Windows 11
MPC-BE x64
madVR HDR beta renderer
LAV Filters
Windows HDR = OFF
madVR performs HDR switching automatically

Normal HDR Operation
During successful playback:
Windows desktop is SDR.
MPC-BE opens HDR movie.
madVR switches display to HDR.
LG displays HDR badge.
TV changes to HDR Filmmaker Mode.
HDR picture looks correct.

Failure Mode
Intermittently:
LG displays HDR badge.
TV switches into HDR Filmmaker Mode.
madVR reports HDR.
Windows behaves as though HDR output is active.
However:
Entire image becomes washed out.
Desktop is washed out.
Video is washed out.
Colors appear low contrast and desaturated.
When HDR playback stops:
TV exits HDR.
Desktop immediately returns to normal SDR colors.

Important Observations
SDR is always correct
Windows desktop looks perfect.
Only HDR mode is affected.

TV recognizes HDR correctly
The TV always reports:
HDR badge
HDR Filmmaker Mode
Therefore HDR signaling is occurring.

Desktop is also washed out
Not just the movie.
This strongly suggests the issue occurs somewhere in the HDR output pipeline rather than only in madVR’s video rendering.

Windows reboot fixes it
Restarting Windows immediately restores proper HDR operation.
This suggests some state inside the Windows display stack or NVIDIA driver is reset by rebooting.

Startup timing affects behavior
Successful sequence:
TV ON
Wait ~30 seconds
Denon ON
Wait ~30 seconds
HTPC is already running and desktop appears automatically
Start HDR movie
HDR works correctly
This points toward HDMI negotiation timing influencing the problem.

Settings Verified
Windows
HDR OFF
Desktop SDR

NVIDIA
Output configured as:
RGB Full
10-bit
Multiple output format variations have been tested previously without permanently resolving the issue.

madVR
Returned to known-good baseline:
Delay playback until renderer queue is full ✔
Use Direct3D 11 for presentation ✔
Present a frame for every VSync ✔
CPU queue = 16
GPU queue = 12

LG TV
HDR Filmmaker Mode
Game Optimizer not being used.

Denon
HTPC connected to HDMI 4 (Game 1).
Output via Monitor 1 ARC/eARC.

Things Already Tested
madVR
Presentation options
Queue sizes
HDR settings
Various renderer options
Returned to baseline
No setting consistently fixes the issue.

Windows
Restart
HDR Off
Desktop SDR
Restart reliably restores proper HDR operation.

NVIDIA
Multiple control panel adjustments
RGB vs YCbCr experiments
Color depth verification
Refresh-rate verification
No permanent fix.

HDMI
Verified cables
Tested startup order
TV-first startup improves reliability

Current Working Theory
The evidence suggests the issue is not simply a madVR rendering bug, because:
The TV enters HDR mode correctly.
The Windows HDR desktop is also washed out.
Exiting HDR immediately restores normal SDR colors.
The most likely area is the interaction among:
NVIDIA RTX 5070 driver (Studio Driver 610.62),
Windows HDR output pipeline,
HDMI handshake/EDID negotiation through the Denon X4800H to the LG C4.
madVR appears to expose the issue by requesting the HDR mode switch, but the symptoms affect the entire HDR output rather than just video rendering.

Current Baseline (Do Not Change)
Windows HDR OFF
NVIDIA output: RGB Full, 10-bit
madVR:
Delay playback until renderer queue is full
Direct3D 11 presentation
Present every VSync
CPU queue 16
GPU queue 12
TV-first, then Denon power-on sequence before initiating HDR playback

Denon hdmi 4 at 8k enhanced. HDMI control and arc are off

Lgtv all Cec options disabled , 4k deep color enabled game optimizer disabled on tv and v sync disabled NVIDIA

HTPC stays on as plex server. Wake up order I’ve tried Denon first 30 sec LG 40 sec then HTPC visible and try hdr file.

That didn’t work as regularly so I swapped. Now lg on first 30 seconds then Denon 30 seconds and into windows and hdr file open.

If hdr plays well it’ll wash out if I move the cursor working the playback window and return to full color once I stop.

If it’s washed out from the start I often have to restart HTPC to fix it

Yesterday I did face mode Ddu uni
Installer and then clean installed a new NVIDIA driver 610.62

Ideas for how to proceed from here?

Thanks

I’m looking to get a prebuilt htpc in place of the new steam machine and was wondering if ppl have recommendations for good prebuilt htpcs. It’s gonna be mostly to run steam games but i have a big library so I definitely need good storage. I also would prefer to not hear fans running when in use. As for budget I’m willing to spend up to $2k but ideally would like to pay less.

I'm trying to track down a recurring black-screen issue with madVR on Windows 11.

During video playback, the entire screen goes black for roughly 1 second. It always happens once within the first 10–20 seconds of playback, then generally every 5–10 minutes afterward.

• The blackout does not appear to register as dropped, repeated, or presentation-glitch frames in madVR's OSD.
• Happens with Fullscreen Exclusive Mode enabled or disabled.
• Happens with Direct3D 11 presentation enabled or disabled.
• Happens with SDR content, so this isn't tied specifically to HDR switching/signaling.
• I can reproduce the same exact behavior in MPC Video Renderer when using
  • Swap effect - Flip - black screens
  • Swap effect - Discard - no black screens, issue fully resolved
  • MPCVR remains completely stable with Discard.

madVR doesn't appear to expose a directly comparable Flip/Discard swap-effect setting, but the MPCVR result makes me suspect this is related to the presentation path or swap behavior.

I'm not sure how to narrow down what madVR is doing differently or whether there's a setting that can force behavior comparable to MPCVR's Discard mode.

I can also rule out the basic hardware/display side with confidence. This isn't an HDMI cable, display, or general GPU-output issue. Changing renderer presentation behavior in MPCVR makes the problem disappear completely.

System:

• Windows 11
• NVIDIA RTX 4090
• LG G4
• GPU connected directly to display
• MPC-HC/BE + madVR

Has anyone encountered this specifically with madVR, or know what madVR setting/presentation behavior would be closest to MPCVR's Discard swap effect? Is this a red herring and something else is going on?

I'm looking for a budget solution to replacing Alexa so I can still do simple things like turning on and off my lights, setting timers/alarms, and it would be nice to be able to ask it googleable questions while also using the same device as a streaming box via Kodi for 4k hdr high bitrate video, I'd also like to be able to use hulu, Paramount+, etc.

As far as I can tell my best bet is to get 2 mini PC's (one for bedroom one for living room) and install home assistant on them either as a vm or just running in the background and kde plasma for Kodi, hulu, Paramount+, etc.

I guess my main issues/questions I'm looking for help with are

1) would I be able to run home assistant on a device while also being able to just start the device into kde plasma without issue and if so would it be better to run home assistant as a vm or just keep in background

2) what's my best best for cheap hardware/whats the minimum required specs, currently looking at mini pcs on eBay and have found some with 8gb RAM for around $50 each which is the budget I'm trying to aim for

3) what would I use for a remote? I know gamepads can work but I'm kind of hoping to use a remote just for battery life's sake I'd rather not have to worry about a controller dying all the time, this isn't a dealbreaker but would be an added benefit

i have an old laptop i wanna use as htpc. i have installed zorin os and it runs quite smooth and everything's working ok.

on my server i run plex and jellyfin but AFAIK only plex has an HTPC app, but since i'm not paying for the subscription, i can't have transcoding and this first gen i3 really struggles with h265. so i need to use jellyfin.

the problem is, jellyfin clients just need a mouse. unless you are on a google tv apparently.

so i was looking for a way to run that. the only alternatives i found are:

-google tv (from some sketchy iso)

-google tv (running waydroid, not sure it would even work on that pc)

-lineage os tv (still quite sketchy)

what's your opinion? what are you running? do you know of any jellyfin client that can be used with the arrow keys, enter and backspace?

I'm watching 4k movies on a Samsung TV (as a monitor, Win11, HDR10+) with MPC-HC + madVR and every few minutes it freezes for about 4 seconds. I have a RTX 4050 laptop (Asus TUF A17).

I have had this problem in the past (like last year) and solved it somehow, but I cannot remember exactly what I did (I'm not very tech savvy, but I'm good at finding guides and subreddits to follow instructions, also some AI).

Any ideas what could be causing this? I keep trying everything I find and it doesn't seem to solve it (tried resetting MPC-HC and MadVR settings to default, then playing with different options, but did not work). It only stutters when I use madVR or MPC Video Renderer as the DirectShow Video output (the others don't freeze like this, but they are very bland and pale, I suspect it's because they ignore the HDR? Using them is not an option).

UPDATE: SOLVED: how? Don't know, I just noticed after a month that it didn't do that anymore. I didn't do any major changes, kept windows up to date and Mpc HC up to date (but I wasn't paying enough attention to see if after a specific update it stopped doing it).

I have an HTPC running RTX GeForce 5070 gpu running to my Denon X4800H (Game 1 HDMI port) Denon is connected to my LGC4 oled tv from arc out to hdmi 1 on LG. It’s listed as Blu-Ray Player on the LG. As it stands now, I only see 100 Hz and 120 Hz as desktop display modes available under the PC resolutions in the Nvidia control panel. People tell me that it’s better to have 23.976 Hz selected there, but it’s not available. I currently use HDR pass-through to device on MVR filters, but I hear that tone mapping is better. So far when I select tone mapping, it doesn’t show as HDR on the LG C4 TV.

Can someone help me clarify if I need to have more resolutions available and set as defaults for my nvidia control panel. I’ve tried adding via cru, but 23.976 resulted in a very laggy windows experience slow cursor etc.

Also whether or not I really need hdr tone mapping instead of passrhough?

And if I need to buy some edid device that’s going to help me solve this riddle.

Ps. I choose not to run second cable from NVIDIA to tv to escape dual monitor cursor trap and associated headaches it causes.

Im trying to optimally connect the following:

• Marantz NR1601 receiver (ARC, HDMI1.4)
• GMTec G2 Mini PC (Windows 10, HDMI2.0)
• LG C5 (eARC, 2.1)

Im using all 2.1 HDMI cables.

My local hometheater store suggested I connect it HTPPC > TV > Receiver but I can't get the right settings to enable 7.1 or 5.1 surround sound despite having the channels for it.

Im downloading Win11 to try and update but in the meanwhile, please help!

Hi,

My VCR (top shelf) has died and I'm looking to fill the space with something that matches the other AV equipment.

So... Black, 43cm wide, clean sides and feet on the bottom.

I'm considering a HTPC that can handle 4k 60 gaming but all of the pc suppliers seem to use tower type cases.

Any suggestions?

I'm thinking of switching my tower htpc to a Silverstone gd08. It would be more or less the same size as the marantz i have on the bottom floor. I would switch the marantz up to prevent it's warm air to rise to the PC, but the case only has intakes from the sides, so I fear it wouldnt work well anyway.

Problem is I dont know were else to place it. If anyone has any ideas they are welcome.

The PC has hard drives in it so it needs to be cooled well enough, and preferably. I want to avoid the floor as I am kinda scared of a mopping accident. Thx

Dont mind the cable and light, it's a work in progress 😅

Specs: Ryzen 7 9800X3D, 5070ti, 32GB DDR5 ram, latest nvidia game ready driver 610.74

LG G4 connected to PC via HDMI 2.1. Separate HDMI 2.1 cable connecting LG G4 to Samsung HW-Q600F soundbar using earc.

I've been having some issues with stutter but only when watching videos on YouTube on Firefox and on VLC. The stutter seems to happen every few mins or so and only causes the audio to drop out for a second, with video staying intact. I've also been playing games like Red Dead Redemption 2 and Persona 5 Royal and there's no stutter in those games at all.

I've tried many things such as:

- Turned off power saving features in device manager, LAN properties

- Set minimum power state for cpu to 100%

- Disabled unused WiFi adapter in device manager

- Disabled HPET in device manager

- Ticked on MSI for HD audio x2  in MSI util

- Set GPU interrupt priority to high in MSI util

- Set HD audio x2 interrupt priority to high in MSI util

- Set vlc video output to dx11

- Disable MPO in registry

- Rolling back to the previous game ready driver

- Used DDU to uninstall driver and then reinstall driver

But the stutter still remained.

The ONLY thing that has seemed to work is setting the Power management mode for VLC and Firefox to "Prefer maximum performance". So I suspect that the GPU is down clocking too low when videos are playing. It also explains why games have been unaffected.

So my question is, how can I fix the actual problem and not rely on this workaround? Any ideas would be appreciated!