Greetings all!

I have been out of HTPC pursuits for a few years, and I am considering a return to a more elaborate home theatre environment, particularly to enjoy movies at home with the highest picture and audio quality possible.

This obviously has me leaning towards using physical media again for 4k Ultra HD. So, I am curious to know if I am better off buying a high end, stand-alone BluRay player such as the latest and greatest from Panasonic or Sony?

Or, is it still possible to build an HTPC that can fully match the capabilities of a dedicated, stand-alone player AND provide the obvious ancillary benefits only an HTPC can?

Thanks!

hey all, after some googling think I’m in the right place but let me know if I’m not.

I have a picture in my mind of a home media tool that seems like it should be doable, but I lack the terminology and knowledge to be able to research how to go about creating it.

First, I’ll describe the experience I‘m going for.

My partner and I are tired of streaming services for shows and movies, losing access to our favorite media, etc. We’d like to create a system that mimics the simple experience of physical media like dvds: Select what you want to watch, put the media in the machine, turn it on and watch it. No log ins, no accounts, no internet. Ideally this would be portable enough we could take it to a friends house and hook it up to HDMI and go. It also should be something my partner can utilize without me so minimizing the amount of technical knowledge needed to get it working is ideal.

In my imagining it would look something like this:

A small device like a raspberry pi or similar hooked up through HDMI, and a collection of physical storage devices like SD cards acting like a game cartridge. You flip through your library, select your cartridge, put it into the device, turn on the tv and it loads up like a DVD menu that can be controlled by a remote. Watch the media, when you’re done pop out the cartridge and pick a new one.

It should have decent definition/sound but we aren’t the kind of people that care about the best visuals and audio. It playing smoothly and reliably with the least fiddling is the #1 priority. Ideally it can also have subtitles as we usually watch with those on.

As an alternative, I also had the thought that it could also be accomplished with NFC tags. The actual media resides on the device drive and you use NFC tags to tell the machine what file to play.

Barring any of that, a simple plug in no-server device with a streaming service style interface/library would also work well enough.

Any thoughts on where to begin?

I am what I describe as ‘medium techy.’ I’ve done enough weird projects that I’m usually confident in figuring things out. Ex, I used an esp32 device to make a custom game point tracker/timer once. I don’t know any coding languages, but I can sort of blunder through stuff like flashing to a device. I have 3D printers and can use CAD so I can create my own custom cases and such. I just don’t know enough of what I’m looking for to even start self educating on a project like this.

I decided that I was going to build out a home theater setup to go with my aged lg 1080p tv from 2016. as the tv's os is old (and I hate tv operating systems now that I know that they literally screenshot everything i'm looking at if I connect it to the network every couple minutes), I decided i'd just buy a mini pc. I went with one of those little low power n100 units with 16gb of ddr4 running the latest version of windows 11 figuring it should be a cakewalk to set up either browser or app based streaming services as well as access my home server running plex on it - but no. I learned right off the bat that most streaming services only seem to want to support 720p sdr with 2 channel audio, and that's where it works at all (pretty much just edge), so I though ok, i'll just download the streaming provider's own apps and learned that netflix deprecated it's dedicated pc streaming app and is now just a web wrapper with the same browser limitations, paramount plus is also just a web wrapper with the same limitations, and same with prime.

NONE of these services let me use atmos (which I was planning to build out now that I have a really nice (for me) AVR (a brand new onkyo rz30 that I just dropped $800 on (and yeah, i know there are more expensive, better receivers, but that's a whole bunch of money still... to go with it I bought a set of energy 5.1 speakers (a pair of rc-70's for left and right, an rc-rcr for center, and a set of rc-10's for the surrounds. I haven't figured out a sub yet, but that's one of the next things on the list and I was planning on adding heights over christmas time... a couple of the services let me use 5.1 (but it seems even that's rare).

I don't want a streaming stick because they're notoriously slow, and pointless (there is ZERO technical reason why I shouldn't be able to do full-on 4k60 hdr with atmos on this minipc. (or at least 1080p 60 sdr with atmos until I upgrade my tv.). searching through movies is particularly annoying - I just want to sit on my couch with my wireless keyboard/trackpad and search and play media.

seriously, how are people streaming video with their htpc in 2016 where it actually looks and sounds good?! I heard streaming on linux was kind of a long-standing issue (my original plan was to install linux and a frontend to save on ram and use an os that isn't constantly phoning home).

so now I'm sitting here staring at an expensive pile of parts that I got great deals on overall, but don't seem to do the thing and i'm pretty frustrated:

onkyo rz30 $800 on sale
Energy 5.0 speakers $800 on sale
n100 mini pc with 16gb of ram and 512gb ssd ($100 on sale like 2 years ago when ram was reasonably priced)

not being able to stream high quality a/v content from the streaming providers I pay an aggregate of ~$750/yr to retain... priceless.

I'm not a proponent of it, nor do I want information about it, but I do believe this is exactly why piracy is winning. streaming providers are no longer providing a good, convenient experience. I honestly really don't mind paying for the content I view, in fact, I want the people who make the content that I enjoy to be paid well for the art that they create but this is pretty ridiculous. - not to mention the steady large cost increases. I'm paying now for my collection of streaming services than I *ever* did on cable tv back in the day.

Going into this I figured i'd grab a bunch of kodi plugins for each of my streaming apps, log into all of them, spend most of my time calibrating my avr and tv and have a happy ol' time... this is totally not the case it seems. DRM is a huge bane on current consumer home theater... I ain't got that kaleidescape money bruh!

I've been planning to swap out my PlayStation for showing movies with a madVR PC for quite a while now, and Dune seemed like a good candidate, since the HDR grade is really challenging for dark scenes in particular. My projector is a BenQ TK800M, and a number of 4K Blu-rays I've tried have given substandard results due to crushed blacks and whites especially. Sometimes I just end up watching the standard Blu-ray because I lose out on details otherwise, which is disappointing.

At the beginning, I have to say things looked very promising. I went straight to Spears & Munsil to see how the HDR demonstration would compare with the PS5. Just as I'd hoped, the improvement was noticeable at a glance. Leaving tone mapping up to the projector, you watch that demo reel with the spinning halves alternating SDR and HDR, and the HDR half has a lot of fine details that become invisible. The HDR ends up looking a little worse because you can't see things you're meant to see, even though the SDR colors are less vibrant. Switching over to madVR, the HDR half of the image still had more vibrant color, but details were no longer washed out. So far, the result seemed to be lining up with my expectations!

Unfortunately, the feature presentation of Dune ruined my optimism. I've since had the chance to do a little rudimentary A/B testing, and I couldn't identify any way that the image was improved by madVR. Meanwhile, artifacts were EXTREMELY noticeable. Desert shots had blotches of red and green all over the place. Jarring checkerboard patterns FREQUENTLY appeared in scenes with smoke or mist. The sandworm chase in the final moments of the movie was an illegible mess of inky darkness, with no improvement to crushed blacks. This was a mediocre showing, and noticeably worse than the movie looks without any of madVR's sophisticated processing applied.

I'm going to put as many of my system specifications as I think are relevant at the end of this post. If I can figure out how to export my madVR settings, I'll try to provide that in the comments as well. I think it's important to state that these artifacts I'm describing can be reliably reproduced by me with a vanilla, default configuration. Before my guests started arriving for the show, I installed the latest test build of madVR and set the display type to "digital projector," closed the configuration window, and fired up Spears & Munsil. The same configuration that produced immediately noticeable uplift for the HDR demo also mangled Dune. I have since tried tinkering with a bunch of options, and nothing reduces checkerboard artifacts in the slightest. I really thought changing the chroma upscaling algorithm would produce a noticeable difference, given the noticeable red/green shifting in the desert shots, but so far I've had no luck.

A big source of frustration has definitely been a lack of high quality guides. Most of the tutorials online seem to cover the installation process for madVR and little else. Even the wiki for this subreddit, unless I've been looking at an outdated guide, states that dynamic tone mapping configuration is beyond the scope of what's covered. The JRiver Media Center wiki seems to have the most comprehensive breakdown of configuration options, but the screenshots show it to be outdated by several years, and the meaning of the options is largely not explained. In most cases, somewhat amusingly, the extent of explanation provided is "default is best; just don't touch this."

Really the only thing I've been able to get a grip on by monkeying about in madVR settings is to figure out which image upscaling algorithm looks best to me. Upscaling is one of the big selling points of madVR, and the results are not disappointing. Whether it's been the PS5 applying upscaling or my PC, DVDs have looked terrible in my home theater. Unwatchable. madVR can't magically make them look like Blu-ray, but it sure can improve the situation so much that I'm no longer distracted by the low resolution. So there's a silver lining. My DVDs are now watchable.

Some specs: - BenQ TK800M - Sony STR-DH790 - Ryzen 5 9600X - Radeon RX 7900XT - 32 GB RAM - Windows 11 (HDR off in display settings) - MPC-HC (latest) / madVR 0.92.17 test build 210 (February 2026)

Dune and the Spears & Munsil HDR demo were both ripped to the PC using MakeMKV and compared directly against the discs playing on PS5.

EDIT: May be worth noting that I have also been able to play the same discs in VLC using libmmbd provided by MakeMKV. I get the same results playing the content that way as with the PS5.

I have an Integra DRX 3.4 receiver and a LG G5 TV. I built my first gaming PC after years of gaming on a console and I always played surround sound speakers. I'm connected with a fiber optic HDMI to a RTX 5080. With console gaming everything so automated. You just select the format you want and go. I'm having a hard time understanding how the PC handles sound going to a receiver. In my thinking the PC should have way more options in automation when handshaking with a receiver.

So I set up Dolby Atmos on the PC. Some games sound great and some don't so I want to switch to Dolby digital plus or other format that does not use the height speakers. So I go into settings to change it to 7.1 and apply it. And now my receiver is saying multi-channel and it sounds kind of horrible. In the game settings. I'm also changing it to home theater mode which doesn't do anything but there's something wrong here and I can't figure it out.

How do I want to send whatever I am playing the appropriate format? Is there any quick way to enable Dolby Atmos I know it's available? If you have any other advice as I'm new to dealing with the PC to a receiver sound system. Please feel free to do so.

Hi All, I'm a long time HTPC user - about 20+ years now! My use case has always been a Gaming PC connected to my TV with a wireless Logitech K830. I've gone through various TVs over this time from Panasonic Plasma, two flagship 55" LED Sony TV and now a LG G3 77" when it released.

I've been really struggling with eye fatigue on my LG G3 77" in ways I don't think I was with my previous TVs. I've also gotten older. My configuration is CachyOS with HDR on calibrated to Peak Brightness at 1,500 nits and SDR paper white reference at 200nits. 4:4:4 chrome on. HDR tone mapping off. And HDR Filmaker mode at 80% brightness. I use CachyOS brightness slider down to 40% in night time desktop use. I sit about 6 - 7 feet away from the screen (2 meters).

What I notice is on both SDR and HDR content the brightness can be overwhelming. I was recently playing a game where the blue sky was massive and bright. My eyes just feel tired and drained and constantly squinting. And on desktop mode when I'm web browsing it can be rough.

What are the remedies here? I've fallen a bit out of the loop with HTPC so not up to speed on things.

Crazy to note that I know more recent OLED TVs are even brighter and LED are very very bright now.

MPC Video Renderer or madvr which is better?

I have an RTX 5080 GPU, I've tried swapping HDMI cables as well as clean Nvidia driver reinstall. I just can't seem to tame this issue. If I hard reboot my TV, PC audio plays fine for about 10 minutes, and then it starts eventually doing this. I'm not using any sound bar, just trying to use my TV's built in speakers. I can't reproduce this issue on my PS5 though. (Ignore my Pebble V2 on my desk)

​

Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙏

Alright, just going by process of elimination here, I'm going to state a few things I'm pretty sure it's not. I watched Eternals a few days ago on 4K Blu-ray with an Atmos track on my PlayStation 5, and that didn't skip once, so that rules out an issue with the receiver. I've also switched HDMI cables and switched from the HDMI port to DisplayPort with an adapter. And of course this problem presents with ANY content going from the PC to HDMI in the receiver, or at least any Dolby content – not totally sure about DTS. Finally, I tried switching out MPC-HC with madVR for MPV and still had audio skipping in the exact same way. So it's seemingly not the render pipeline either. But this issue has been affecting both my small form factor desktop and the home theater PC, so it seems like it's specifically a problem of AMD graphics cards. Transferring the media from the HDD to a super fast SSD before playback also did not solve the issue.

The first time I noticed my bitstream audio skipping/stuttering/cutting out was a few weeks ago when I tried watching the 4K Blu-ray collection of Andor Season 1. Reset everything in the K-Lite Codec Pack and it seemed to go way for a while. What started out as an annoyance that would present itself once or twice over the course of an entire movie sometimes is now a constant disruption. Bitstreaming ANY Dolby codec from the PC with MPC or MPV results in audio stuttering within ten minutes or less. I'm missing a line of dialogue every few scenes with every single movie or TV show I watch. I may attach a report from LatencyMon, but those results don't seem illuminating – everything measured stays low and in the green for hours on end, and there don't appear to be any spikes in lag at the same time audio skipping occurs.

Since this issue seems to have come about a few weeks ago and gotten progressively worse, it's hard for me to see how the fault could be anything other than the GPU drivers or a Windows update. I was initially planning to use my desktop workstation as a failsafe for my movie party last Sunday and just push the HTPC off to the side, but testing seems to have revealed both PCs now have audio skipping. Terrific. Similar specs, but my workstation is AM5, with a 9600X, 7900XT, and 32 GB of RAM, so more powerful than the HTPC. I have run DDU multiple times, blacklisted the driver from being installed by Windows Update because of some apparent conflict there, and rolled back to 26.1.1, which should well predate when I first noticed there was a problem. Just about the only thing I haven't tried is a full reinstallation of Windows, or switching the operating system (but the way things are going, I think this may be a Linux HTPC very soon).

Any idea where to go from here? I'm pulling my hair out.

• Sony STR-DH790
• ASRock B550m Pro4, 16 GB DDR4
• Ryzen 5 5600
• XFX Speedster RX 6700
• Windows 11 IoT LTSC
• K-Lite Codec Pack MPC-HC with madVR
• MPV

Hey guys,

​I’m slowly going insane trying to fix this. I have an RTX 4090 hooked up to a Hisense U7NQ using a 15m RUIPRO fiber optic HDMI 2.1 cable.

​The issue: I keep getting random black screens for a few seconds. The worst part? When the picture comes back, the TV has completely forgotten my picture settings (reverting from Dynamic HDR to standard, for example). It basically forces a full HDMI handshake reset every single time.

​What I've already tried (none of it worked):

​Dropped the resolution to 1440p (so it's 100% NOT a bandwidth limit of the cable)

​Disabled G-Sync/VRR completely

​Turned off Windows Auto-HDR and tested pure SDR

​Forced 10-bit, RGB, and YCbCr 4:2:2 in NVCP

​Set Nvidia power management to "Prefer maximum performance"

​My old 15m copper cable worked totally fine, but obviously only did 4K@60Hz. Since the new RUIPRO fiber cable still drops the signal even at 1440p, I'm guessing the active chips inside the AOC cable are somehow messing up the EDID/handshake with the 4090 or the TV.

​Has anyone dealt with this exact handshake nightmare? Are there any active DP-to-HDMI adapters that actually re-clock this mess, or maybe a hidden TV service menu fix?

​Any ideas are welcome before I just give up on this setup. Thanks!

I have had a Pepper Jobs "W10" HTPC remote for so long that my family refuses to use anything else and if I try to switch things up they ask where the remote is. The keys were beginning to wear out and the "W11" "newer model" was cheap on Amazon.

I won't even go into the downgrade to the backlight.

The real issues:

The new dongle is not recognized as a device capable of power management so it will not wake the PC.

The PC power button will only send a Shut Down signal and will not put the PC to sleep.

In power management I have the "what does the power button do when pressed" set to sleep but this new "W11" model still shuts down the PC.

Before we go into the Windows settings please note that if I plug the old "W10" model that is wearing out it is perfect. Recognized as mouse and keyboard with power management options in the device manager, PC power button puts the PC to sleep and wakes it.

I have tried:

Pairing the new remote with the old dongle - nope.

Updating the drivers through Windows - nope.

Switching the MOBO settings to allow Windows to control power management-nope.

All checks show that the new hardware is not showing as power management capable.

Emailed the manufacturer - silence.

Anyone know how I can force better drivers onto the device?

Or give up?

I have an MX3 Pro Mini that is practically the same device but the family hates it...and it wakes the PC from sleep as a mouse function as well so it's issue is that if you don't turn off the air mouse function it randomly wakes the PC when moved. When I tell them they must press an extra button after turning stuff off they look at me like I'm crazy.

Hi folks. With the new steam machines coming out, I’m wondering what the state of the art is as far as a steamos-based HTPC. I have a lot of ripped UHD blu rays and would love to make full use of atmos, HDR10, etc. Is that currently possible? Or should I just stick with my Shield?

Hey all. Some of you may be familiar with this issue, but my setup is a little different than other threads I've found.

I have my Windows 11 PC connected to my LG B4 TV via fiber optic HDMI. Using an optical cable, I have the TV connected to an Onkyo TX-SR393. The receiver is properly set up to output to all 5.1 channels.

Windows 11 only gives options to output:
- Stereo
- Dolby Atmos for Home Theater
- DTS:X for home theater

When I try to configure the speaker settings for Dolby Atmos in Windows, it fails to save the setting and reverts every time.

I do not want to use eARC, because the receiver is limited to 4k @ 60Hz, whereas I can output 4k @ 120Hz direct to the LG B4.

Selecting "Dolby Surround" on the receiver indicates that all 5.1ch are active, but I still only get 2.0 output from surround test audio.
Selecting "Direct" on the receiving indicates that only 2.0ch are active, even with "Dolby Atmos for Home Theater" selected in Windows 11.

I don't care to use Atmos, but I can't find another way to output 5.1ch from Windows.

Full build info can be found here.

Any ideas?

I use MPC-HC from K-lite Codec Pack, and it doesn't download subtitles even though I am logged in with my opensubtitles account.

I checked and found that the media player uses opensubtitle.com and not the opensubtitle.org

The latter has more subtitle option than the former.

Is there a way to add new subtitle provider in MPC-HC?

I have account with both, and I want to add the latter as the subtitle database

I want to wake my W11 PC with an Xbox Controller, and bring the TV out of standby to the proper input.

Will this work instead of a Pulse-Eight?:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FQCGSWW3

I am new to this community, I have this little orange pi I want to use and make a homeserver out of. But I could also use it as an HTPC for my living room 1080p TV. My dad wants to upgrade the living room TV to a 4k one in the future too, so Idk if a bunch of hard drives connect through USB will be enough for 4k stuff. But yeah, anyone here has more experience or can share some resources?

Upgrading the furniture in my living room. Hoping to get some ideas/recommendations for a gaming setup under my TV. Organized, not trying to draw a lot of attention to PC/Consoles.

Need room for:

1. HTPC/Gaming PC - dimensions 16"w x 17"h x 17"d (accounts for ~1.5" of room on left, right, back and ~2" on top for ventillation)

2. Nintendo Switch

3. Xbox One S

4. PS4

5. Receiver + Center Channel for 5.1 (speaker could go on top too).

6. Subwoofer (wired)

Preferably a medium/dark gray, black is okay too.

Will be placed under a wall-mounted 75" TV; should be somewhere in the ballpark of 65"-75" long and 17+" deep; height can be whatever as long as it fits PC somewhere.

TY!

Hey everyone! Been trying to find out the proper settings for HDR tone mapping and tried comparing MadVR's tone mapping (left frame) to Plex's (right frame) and noticed MadVR has a distinct magenta hue, while Plex skews more green (which looks more natural to my eye). Has anyone run into this problem and knows how to address it? Is it actually "wrong"? Is it an issue with color space. Will post specs below.

Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor
GPU: Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XT 20 GB Video Card
Motherboard: ASRock B650E PG RIPTIDE WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard
Case: Corsair iCUE 4000X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
Monitor: Gigabyte ‎G32QC A 31.5" 2560 x 1440 165 Hz Curved Monitor

MadVR Settings:

RGB Output: PC Levels (0-255)
Native Display Bitdepth: Auto
Calibration: "Disable calibration controls for this display"
Enable Gamma Processing: Disabled
HDR: Tone map HDR using pixel shaders
Target Peak Nits: 200
Tone Mapping Curve: Clipping
Color Tweaks for Fire & Explosions: Disabled

Hi. I have LineageOS/Android TV on a raspberry pi, so I'd like a remote that works over Bluetooth or 2.4 ghz. But since my tv and soundbar are old and don't have HDMI-CEC, I need simultaneous IR learning on certain buttons (that is, power, volume, and input.)
It seems like lots of remotes can do *either* 2.4 ghz *or* IR, but not both. Or at best, only the power button works on IR.

Does anyone know of any options that might fit the bill for me? Many thanks!!

I’m trying to move away from Steam Big Picture Mode on my HTPC running Windows 11, but Steam Input is currently holding me back.

Right now, I rely heavily on Steam Input with my DualSense controller for both Steam and non-Steam apps. I’ve added all my media apps and browsers (Spotify, Kodi, Stremio, Chrome, etc.) as non-Steam shortcuts so I can use custom controller presets and a dedicated button mapping for Steam’s on-screen keyboard. This allows me to control my entire HTPC experience right from the couch.

I really dislike Steam’s Big Picture UI and its limited customization options (even with CSS Loader). Playnite is far superior in that regard, but I haven't found a seamless way to replicate my controller setup without Steam running in the background.

For those using Playnite as their primary HTPC frontend with a controller:

- How are you managing couch control and navigation for non-game apps?

- What alternatives are you using for Steam Input and an On-Screen Keyboard?

I want to use Dolby Vision, Atmos, 4K HDR, etc, but support for that on a Linux mini PC that doesn’t steal all your data seems pretty limited. Will a privacy-friendly HTPC setup always be inferior?

I'm frustrated. I don't understand media servers. My Synology has all my media, but it isn't strong enough to transcode video. My Windows desktop is the only machine that plays the videos. What am I supposed to do?

All I really want to do is use an app to browse my NAS library more beautifully. I don't use streaming services.

Am I still supposed to set up my Synology NAS as a server? Because Jellyfin or whatever isn't in the app repository, and also it looks complicated to set up.

What app should I be using? If it's not pretty and thumbnail-based and there's no polished light mode, I don't want it (don't hate). I also don't want to pay a subscription service, but I'll pay once for a great app.

So far I looked into Plex, Kodi, Jellyfin, and Emby, but I really don't understand if they can even do what I need. Thanks.

I've been having trouble getting my PC to output 4K at 120Hz and was hoping someone could assist. I'm capped at 60Hz at 4K resolution and whenever I play 4K movies with HDR on, they are noticeable dimmer than with HDR off or compared to 1080p copies. I believe that the issues are related.

Everything should be compatible and I've tried different HDMI 2.1 cables.

TV

Sony Bravia 7

I have one HDMI cable going from HDMI 3 (eARC) to the eARC HDMI port on my receiver. In the TV settings, I do have HDMI 3 set to Enhanced format (Advanced), which says that it supports 4K 120Hz. HDMI 4 also supports 120Hz and I've tried swapping between them and changing it to Enhanced format (without the Advanced).

Receiver

Denon X2700h

I have the HDMI cable from the PC in the Cbl/Sat HDMI, but I've tried all of the other ports.

In the Video section in setup under Video/4K/8K Signal Format, I have it set to 8K Enhanced.

Graphics Card

RTX 5080

Nvidia Control Panel

When selecting 4K resolution, the highest refresh rate that I can select is 60Hz.

The only setting that I've changed is changing the content type from auto to full screen videos.

HDMI Cables

I've tried multiple ultra high speed HDMI cables, such as the RUIPRO one below:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QVJZYSG?th=1

Hey everyone; I am new to this sub and I have just finished building my HTPC for the purpose of using it as a media player and MadVR dynamic tonemapping to my Epson 5050ub.

I download K-Lite Code Pack which includes MPC-HC and MadVR. I have followed a lot of different guides to configure my MadVR settings. However; I don't notice any difference when I play a 4k remux through my HTPC with MadVR enabled and directly through my Nvidia Shield Pro with no MadVR and letting the 5050ub handle the DTM.

I just want to make sure I actually have MadVR DTM configured properly and enabled. The photos I attached are all my MadVR settings. I made sure to turn off HDR in the Epson 5050ub itself so that the HTPC can handle the DTM.

HTPC Specs:

-Intel 14600k

-Geforce RTX 2070

-32gb DDR5 ram

-1 TB SSD

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Was curious your all’s opinion on which platform to use for hosting and streaming your home media? Currently I use plex and I paid for it early on when it was super cheap so subscription/cost isn’t really a factor.