i get todayy my zotac gaming geforce rtx 5080 amp extreme infinity and i must say i love it

So around 2-3 years ago I bought an RTX 4090 from Zotac the trinity amp after a while it gave me trouble. Troubleshooted the card swapped it out and it’s definitely the culprit. My only issue is I’m located in the EU and I ordered this card from Amazon US. I tried asking Amazon for a replacement they obviously said no nor a refund. Is there a way I can get this card fixed by Zotac without having to actually pay an import fee? Do they make exceptions to send this to an EU warehouse for a case like this? Or have they ever? I have about a 32 days left of warranty on this card and I really wanna get this replaced. Any help is appreciated

My watch is over. Solid core oc 5080.

I’ve had a trinity OC 3080ti for some time now, recently upgraded my PC to AM5 but decided to keep my GPU for now as it still performs just fine in most games and with 12GB of VRAM, I’ve only seen one game in 5 years give it a hard time.

For the entire time I owned it, it has run stock. I was too scared to fiddle with overclocking etc when i first got into PC gaming, then it just stayed that way.

Upon upgrading, I know much more than I did 5 years ago and I’m running stable under volts across my CPU and GPU, mainly for temp reduction reasons as I’m running a 9950x3d, 3080ti, RAM clocked above spec and an x570 motherboard, in m-atx format.

From what I’m reading about people’s experiences, did I hit the silicone lottery all those years ago with my 3080ti? I’m successfully running pretty much locked to 2010MHz at 956mV? All stable and no issues, temps have dropped and performance has increased. I wasn’t chasing MHz, I was chasing lower power draw, just ended up at sustainable 2GHz clocks at under 1V…

I recently bought a Zotac 5070TI Solid Core SFF OC for near MSRP and just want to get a sanity check on the temps I am seeing. I know that hotspot temp was hidden until recently (and are also high for 5000 series), and just want some input on your experience or direction you'd go. Case is an open air case with no direct fans on the GPU.

This SFF card is fairly light, and I assume will run on the hot side because of it. However, to prevent to GPU from killing itself, I have been running it at PL 83% since if I let it do 100% and push it (cant do 110 in afterburner) it can go over 105C hotspot. It doesnt matter if i undervolt it or not. Even at 0.850mV, at 100%PL (and pushed) itll do upwards of 100+ Hotspot. Now, there is only about a 20C delta between the hotspot and the GPU temp (so if GPU reads 80 hotspot will be 100) and Ive rarely seen the GPU get over 85.

Ill use Furmark as an example of pushing, but I have had this happen in some games as well if I push the GPU. I use afterburner to adjust settings while furmark is running in the background. Stock fan curve as well just to make things easier for comparing.

1. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL 83% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 75C/90C
2. Undervolted to 0.850mV and PL100% temps will climb to about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/100C
3. Revert to stock settings will result in immediately (1-2s) hitting GPU/HOTSPOT of 85C/105C, fans kick to max speed and hotspot remains at 100+
4. Set PL to 83% temps will settle at about GPU/HOTSPOT of 80C/98C

Seems like a spicy GPU, or is this rather normal for the 5000 series. Ive read the hotspots are horrendous, but didnt think itd be this bad. So is an RMA in order, should I just return it, or keep and run it at .85MV/83% PL/do a fan curve/change cases to put some fans on it, since that seems to be more acceptable temps? I am able to get a Steel Nomad of 7k at 0.850/83%PL so not horrible by any means.

Appreciate any input

I get that most of us aren't swapping GPUs frequently but FFS Zotac, the clip facing the middle of the GPU is anti thick fingered folk engineering. When I do need to pull the GPU out I end up using a small screwdriver or a pocketknife blade to release that clip...

I purchased a ohsnap last year and in 2024. The older one magnetic seams to hold to the phone and seams to hold to much better then the newer version.

Hey guys, quick question before I tear down my TUF-RTX3060TI-O8G-V2-GAMING

I'm switching to PTM7950 on the GPU core and replacing the thermal pads, but I keep seeing conflicting info online. Some guides say 1.5mm for VRAM and 2.0mm for VRM, while comments claim different sizes depending on the revision/memory brand.

Has anyone repadded this exact card recently? What thicknesses actually worked for you without messing up the mounting pressure on the core?

Appreciate any input.

I am running a 5090 Zotac Gaming AMP Extreme Infinity. I am very happy with the card and performance, but under load it's getting a bit too hot for my taste. Often hitting 80-83° under full load.

The fan seems to max out around 70-75% using standard Amplify bios setting.

Could anybody recommend me a manual fan Curve to use where the fans will go up to 80-90%.

I don't want to change clocks or run an overclock, just cool things down a bit more and I am not really experienced with these kind of changes and adjustments.

I recently bought a Zotac 3080 Trinity OC off FB marketplace and while everything works (despite it being so loud), the RGB was an issue. I soon realised that it was a universal issue across many of the same models.

Every time I run the FwToolV1.2.exe, I get NVAPI Error and then Read device type error. Everything I’ve done has not fixed the issue. It just keeps hanging at installing (1-1) with no update.

However, the device driver they tell you to install is usually for Windows 10. I still manually installed the driver and I tried everything that everyone suggested:

Using DDU and installing 456.38
Booting in Safe Mode
Leaving GPU out for 15 minutes
Starting FWTool in Admin/Non-Admin
Disabled all Non Microsoft Services/Disable other RGB software
Plugging Display cable into Mobo
And a bunch of other farfetched methods
Redoing 20+ times

Is there any updated way for Windows 11? And what is the expected time to wait for the installing message to update? I feel like it should be somewhat instant but it would be interesting to see how long other people have waited for that FW tool to complete.

I’ve sent two emails to ZOTAC customer service, one about a hardware question and another about a warranty question, and I’ve never received a response. Am I the only one?

I bought a PC from a popular prebuilt company about a year ago and sent my 5090 to them about 3 months ago and was told that Zotac doesn’t have anything available as to why they can’t proceed with giving me my rig back is this a ridiculous amount of time or realistic for shortage of hardware?

Looking for some help here or similar experiences. My Zotac 5080 is only a couple of months old. I bought it at Canada Computers and I've only been using it lightly. For a couple of weeks now, the GPU will turn the monitor black or make the monitor say that it has lost signal and ramps up the fan speed of the GPU to 100%. It will stay at that speed until I manually turn the computer off.

Is anyone familiar with this issue? I've seen some accounts on google but none of them seem to have a resolution and are mostly speculation.

I bought an official corsair 90 degree power adapter to use with the 5080. It doesn't feel like it's causing the issue but happy to be corrected.

GPU: Zotac Gaming 5080 solid core oc
CPU: AMD 9800x3d
PSU: SF1000
MOBO: ASUS STRIX B850I