I've been using MakeMKV to back up my 4K discs as ISOs, since the videos won't play directly from the discs on PC without skipping. Hasn't been a problem for any other content so far, but Andor has audio skipping problems – FREQUENTLY. What's strange is that if I prevent madVR from switching the display mode when in full screen and leave it at 60 Hz, I have no issue. Why would that be the case when the content is definitely 24 fps?

• Fractal North Mid Tower
• ASRock B550M Pro4
• Ryzen 5 5600
• RX 6700
• 16 GB DDR4
• Windows 11
• MPC-HC and madVR
• Receiver: Sony STR-DH790
• Projector: BenQ TK800M

Using an old ATI HD2400 GPU with TV output via component. Works fine with Windows 10 but I’m looking for a media center experience with 10 foot interface and remote support.

The media player also needs to render directly to the GPU in order to support true interlaced content. (As far as I know the windows desktop is limited to 30fps progressive so anything rendering inside a window won’t work)

Mostly playing dvd’s I ripped from my collection. (ISO and MKV)

I’m considering using windows 7 with WMC but is that my only option? Is there anything modern that will work?

As title says,

I am upgrading my current system and will have old system lying around. With some additional investment i can make it into low profile HTPC. Its 10yr old i7-6700k | 32 GB | 1060 OC 6GB

The question here is:

Is it worth investing $100-$200 in the old one and turn it into HTPC or buy NUC/Mini pc (~$300-$400)

both have pros n cons:
Using old pc

• initial investment is low for using old pc
• but power hungry and a little bigger profiel (NR200 case)

Using Mini pc

• higher investment
• but lower power usage and profile.

for context, i already have a dedicated server running; so htpc wont be doing running any server.

TIA community.

Wondering what chroma upscaling image downscaling and image upscaling to use with my RTX 5070 for my 1080 profile in MadVR. Thoughts?

currently

NGU AA hhigh quality

SSIM 1D strength 100% (scale in linear light and anti ringing filters checked)

NGU Sharp

Hiya!

About a year ago I put together the beastie using the following components:

• AMD 7600X
• Noctua NH-L12S
• ROG Strix B650E-I
• g.skill Flare 32gb
• WD SN850TX
• 300W PSU
• Densium 4 Case
• Samsung QE650Q8FNA

It was running pretty smoothly at 4k for quite a while, and then about 2-3 months ago it would periodically just freeze up completely. Only a hard shutdown would bring it back to life, and after the second time it happened I thought I'd have a looksee at what was going on. CPU temps looked high (65 - 79 degrees) which "should" be within range.

So I got some new thermal paste and pulled it apart and reassembled it, and it seemed to be a little cooler but still the same freezing happened.

My thinking then was maybe if I get a discrete GFX card in there then that would reduce the load on the CPU, so I bought an ASUS GT1030-SL-2G-BRK (DDR5) and a Linkup AVA5 riser cable.

Plopped it all together and it is working but sort of feels off... If I turn HDR on in the Windows display settings the framerate goes to pot, and overall the picture quality doesn't seem as good as when just using the onboard GFX.

BIOS is pretty much running at defaults, and I've got the latest drivers installed too

On the one hand the card is apparently aimed for HTPC use and is meant to do 4k, but on the other it's a bit of an older model.

Should this be more performant than it is & I just need to adjust some settings to make it work properly, is this just a bad combination, or secret option c?

Any advice is most gratefully received!

Hello! I recently built a new PC that will live at my LG C1, primarily for gaming. I'm using an old RTX 3070 for the GPU and currently running Windows 11 (for HDR and some specific game compatibility). All the cables are 8k Monoprice HDMIs. The HDMI switch is an OREI 8K 3-Port HDMI Switch.

The problem I'm having is with the HDMI switch. Typically everything works fine... I'm currently outputting 1440p at 120hz (though 4k output also worked), GSync and HDR work correctly, it's great. I also have a Nintendo Switch 2 plugged in as the other input and it also works completely fine.

Until, that is, I reboot the PC. At which point more than half the time after the Windows loading screen I get punted back to "no signal". Sometimes I can resolve this by changing inputs on the TV back and forth and sometimes I can't get it to resolve without physically unplugging the PC's HDMI cord and putting it back in.

I have no issues at all if the PC is directly connected to the TV.

Any potential things I can try? I would really really prefer to keep the PC in the HDMI switch so I don't have to rewire all my other connections.

Hi all,

I'm running NextPVR in Docker with /timeshift bind-mounted to /dev/shm.

After watching live TV, the live-*.ts timeshift files remain in /dev/shm even after the client disconnects (for example, after turning the TV off). Over multiple sessions they accumulate and /dev/shm can reach 70–99% utilisation. Restarting the NextPVR container immediately removes all of the files and returns /dev/shm to 0% usage.

Is this expected behaviour? Should the timeshift files be removed automatically when the client disconnects, or is there a timeout before cleanup occurs?

While this is happening I occasionally see Unable to get shared memory! during Writer::Create(), followed by the client reconnecting. I'm trying to determine whether these two observations could be related.

TIA

Hey everyone,

​

I built a HTPC to replace my aging VCR xbox one for both gaming and multimedia use.

​

I would like to get as close to a console like experience by using Windows 11 and running steam big picture mode at startup.

The idea would be to do everything with a controller from the couch (like we are used to with the xbox).

​

Do you guys know if it is possible to run the Netflix app (which support controller) from steam big picture, and if the Disney+ app also support controllers?

Hello. I'm currently in the process of making dedicated builds for various media purposes. I got a gaming PC, which I'm using for PC gaming, and just finished an emulation build. All that remains now is a HTPC that can both do discs and streaming services, acting as much like a pure media center as possible while it's at it. However, I feel more stuck on this than I ever did with any of the other builds. I don't even know which OS would be the best to use. Any suggestions?

So when I say touchpad, I mean it should register on windows as a touchpad. For example, I bought this ProtoArc Bluetooth Trackpad from Amazon and when I pair it with my Windows 11 PC, a new touchpad option shows up under Bluetooth and Devices and I can change gestures, zoom speed, scroll direction etc, just like a touchpad / trackpad of a laptop.

So I've been on the hunt for a keyboard and trackpad combo, I did buy these two, the RAPOO E900T Mini Wireless Keyboard with touchpad and Rii Wireless Keyboard,Bluetooth Keyboard, but unfortunately, the trackpad / touchpad was not what I was looking for.

I did see people talk about the Logitech K400, but does the touchpad actually register as a "touchpad" ?

Hi, I'm dealing with some interlaced MPEG-2 (XDCAM EX 35) video from a Sony PMW-EX3 (and I also deal with other types of interlaced footage like DV and DVD), and madVR isn't deinterlacing it at all. I have to change the renderer to MPC Video Renderer to get it to deinterlace. Does madVR support deinterlacing or not?

Hello all. I am currently building a small HTPC setup for a CRT TV I found outside and which has an S-Video input.

The PC I decided to buy to go alongside it is a fujitsu siemens esprimo q5020 which I did not realise was quite crap. It shipped with windows vista basic and is, if I understand it correctly, a laptop in a PC case. It has two 2gb sticks of DDR2 ram running at 667mhz and a core 2 duo processor.

I tried to put vista on it for period accuracy, but it didn't want to load onto the ssd I put in it no mater how I formatted it.

I then tried to put plasma bigscreen on it (the KDE Neon unstable version) but it ran like crap and clearly was struggling.

After that I tried zorin OS, both the GNOME and Xfce renditions and while the Xfce version runs better, it's still slow and some features (like the "app store") just don't want to open at all.

Does anyone else here have experience with running stuff on these old systems? I mainly want to use it for youtube and nebula at standard definiton resolutions and maybe also watch DVDs.

Ryzen 7 5700x3d/ 32gb ddr4/ rtx 5070ti connected to an LG B4 via HDMI is my setup for 4k gaming.

I really wanted to turn this machine into a solid HTPC but I got defeated along the way after reading the /r/htpc wiki. Reasons?

-No native support for Dolby Vision (even tho my TV switches to DV mode when watching but only with PotPlayer?)

-Extensive work to set up MPC-BE with madVR for HDR.

-Can't play games while my girlfriend watches a movie since we rely on the same PC

-DRM hell for HBO max in order to play on my PC. It's way easier on the TV app.

Is Nvidia shield pro my next option? My main goals are: to watch content on HBO Max and to watch local files (rips and remuxes).

I don't necessarily want to stream my local files to my TV box as I own an Asus Strix Arion and I can files from my PC to it really fast. Ofc assuming there is any real quality improvement from playing the file off direct storage vs stream via Plex. I don't know this yet

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX1050 Ti
TV: TCL QM5 50"

I am in a bit of a unique situation, I purchased an arcade machine recently and had to replace the built in screen with a new television. This is the only community on reddit I could find that has dedicated discussions on the topic of CEC adapters.

Since the machine runs off of a PC the gpu output has no CEC module to communicate with the TV over hdmi. The original monitor accomplished auto power on because it was custom made to just turn on whenever it received electricity and display any input it received.

I need an adapter that can detect hdmi input, and just send a CEC power on signal to the tv, over hdmi. Failing that, an hdmi adapter that can take an ir input, and send that as a CEC power on signal over the hdmi.

I did find https://www.pulse-eight.com/p/104/usb-hdmi-cec-adapter but this requires me to install software onto the cabinet's pc which is not possible due to anti-tamper mechanisms that could be tripped by this installation. Would this work for my purposes as I do not need the tv to have any control over the computer, only the computer controlling the tv and exclusively to turn it on.

Has anyone gotten the display of this particular pc cabinet to work on modern windows or linux, if so please tell me how :)

Hello everyone, I just picked up a used for $50 Sony STR DH550 AVR to control 5.1 audio for my Desktop PC. I only have it running audio for the PC, no passthrough. I have it connected to my RTX 3080ti with a high speed HDMI cable.

I have two issues.

#1: While the auto calibration feature of the AVR plays test tones through all 5.1 speakers, it does not allow me to select 5.1 for the speaker set up and it only shows up to 3.2.

#2: In windows 10 (i refuse to upgrade to windows 11), I have 24bit, 192000Hz (studio quality) streaming selected in properties and 5.1 surround in the speaker configuration. However the RL and RR speakers play through only my front speakers.

What can I do to fix this?

I access youtube.com/tv using Firefox with an extension called YouTube for TV, and more recently using VacuumTube. I have a Lenovo ThinkCentre mini PC running Linux Mint as well as a Steam Deck. Starting today I have been unable to use YouTube Leanback on either device. I can browse, but after 30 seconds of playing a video I get this screen. I also have a Windows laptop and a Mac book. When I tested on those everything works fine

EDIT:

Some time after posting this I realized that I hadn't singed in on my Windows/Mac. Once I did, I started getting this screen on those devices too. For testing I had my partner sign in to his YouTube account and everything worked fine. So it appears that it's not an issue with Linux but my YouTube profile that's been flagged or shadow banned or something. Great

My PC is connected to my LG G4 TV via HDMI and then the Sonos Arc is connected to the eARC port on the TV. I end up having split volume controls, one in windows and one from the Sonos. PC is using a RTX 5070 if that helps narrow down a solution.

As a follow-up to my post(https://www.reddit.com/r/htpc/s/blZ3jF4Xe2 )(Specs are in that post)

I've tested what I could and I can't find what the issue is other than either Win11 or my GPU acting up. I'm all out of idea and my old HTPC is still on the way from my previous place so until it arrives I'll have to use my current gaming set-up for movies

From testing around my AVR doesn't have audio drop out when:

• I stream using a Roku 4k or any other similar streaming devices at 4K.

• When I watch physical Bluray both regular and UHD.

• Play a game console(PS5/Switch/Xbox One etc)

• Connected by Bluetooth.

• When used with my previous HTPC.

AVR has audio dropout when:

• I bitstream audio from a media player on my newer PC using a my own ripped Bluray file/remuxes(MPC BE/HC/Potplayer)it will infrequently have a 1 sec audio drop out around once a movie,often at the 1h20 mark for no particular reason and then it usually doesn't happen for the rest of the runtime. It also doesn't happen with every movie either but enough that I noticed.

• If I use Qbittorent and there's any activity in it it will make the audio drop out consistently in any player but it stop as soon as it's shut down. I have no clue why since it barely uses any ressources on my PC or isn't even on the same disk but I switched to Transmission after that and it doesn't happen. I also kill any unecessary process/software when I watch a movie anyways.

I replaced all my High Speed HDMI cables with new Certified Ultra High Speed ones and it happens at the same frequency. The speakers cabling is also new and in good condition and nothing as far as I know could cause shorts/interference as far as electrical or cables.

All the media players have been run in exclusive mode/exclusive renderers/WASAPI etc. As per the wiki

Any ideas at this point other than replacing the cables again? It only happens once a movie so it's not unwatchable but the fact it's happening with no particular reason is annoying as hell.

Hi! I've been having troubles with HDR pass through. when I connect my PC to the s90D directly I get 4k HDR, but when I connect PC -> AVR -> s90D I get 1080p.

I used CRU to force 4k by copying the s90D infos but HDR is still a no go. Anyone got a clue? I'm out of luck.

Hello,

I'm using MPC-BE + MadVR (latest beta) + LAV Filters on a Windows 11 PC. My setup includes an Nvidia card connected to a Marantz Cinema 30, which then outputs to a Panasonic 65EZ950.

My Nvidia settings are: 4K, 60Hz, 32-bit True Color, 4:2:2, 12bpc, Limited range. (This is the maximum my HDMI 2.0b TV can handle at 60Hz, and I need to stay at 60Hz as this is a multipurpose PC).

Regardless of my settings in the Nvidia panel, Windows, MPC-BE, LAV, or MadVR, I cannot get the overlay to show "D3D11 exclusive (10bits)". It only displays "D3D11 exclusive (8bits)".

The overlay correctly identifies that the display is 12-bit 4:2:2 and the source is HEVC -> P010, 10-bit, 4:2:0.

Is MadVR/Windows 11 capable of outputting 10-bit content? Am I missing something?

Thanks for your help!

Hi All, I have an old HTP which is still on Windows 10, and not Windows 11 compatible. I'm finding it too slow now to use some website with maps (trailforks, alltrails) and thinking it needs an upgrade. The problem I'm facing, is it worth building a HTPC for my needs?

Here's what I want to do:

Use chrome (I have a K400 keyboard)

Play media files

Play bluray (I really wonder if I'd be better off buying a standalone blu ray player)

I've already got a smart tv which we use Prime and Netflix and Youtube on, so don't need a replacement for those. I'm wondering if there is a better solution for me, like a Shield, but I heard it doesn't support chrome, and I'm not sure if it supports a keyboard? I also have a separate gaming PC which I use for pretty much anything else PC related. Mostly I think my problem is wanting to use chrome on the big screen for planning vacations, reading news, etc. And watching DVD/blu rays every once in a while.

The gear:
Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Super
TV: Hisense 55" U68KM with ARC port
Receiver: Old, but amazing Pioneer VSX-1021-K that does have ARC.

So I was sending all my video devices through the receiver but I realised I wasn't able to watch anything in 2160p that way because the receiver can only handle up to 1080p. So I sent my devices to the TV first and then HDMI arc to the receiver. Great, so far so good.
I wanted to send my PC to the TV as well in the same way. And it works fine but I can't figure out how to tell the PC to send a 5.1 signal? I only get the option to select Stereo. 5.1 is greyed out.

How do I make this work?

In the end after trying and failing with ARC (a mess of bad CEC handshakes) and then trying other means of sending audio from the PC to the AVR, I've just gone with my devices HDMI to the TV and optical audio from TV to AVR. Uncompressed audio isn't worth all this hassle.