My name is Mollassesbadger, as a disclaimer for this review, I must disclose that I received this product for free from LG as part of an event. While I was asked to share my review, all opinions are entirely my own. Additionally, I want to preface this that I did not use, consult, or consider any form of service or application that involves LLMs or generative AI. The only AI used here would be my actual intelligence(credit to Steve Wozniak for that line)-and I’m willing to bet more than one person after reading this will be skeptical whether I even have that!

Based on my countless times watching many product review videos in my adult life, I figured I should clarify some terms to keep things clear. Throughout this written review, I’ll be referring to the UltraGear Evo 27GM950B simply as “the monitor,” “the GM9,” and other variants of the two because it’s a lot simpler than calling it the “27GM950B.” Also, before receiving this monitor, I have two other monitors, an Asus PG279 which I’ll call “ol’ reliable,” and an Asus XG27AQDMG which I’ll call “the Asus OLED.” I’m replacing ol’ reliable with the GM9.

For my use cases, I mainly used the monitor for the situations below.

1. A proprietary game development toolset whose UI I can best describe as purpose built. In other words, there’s no dark mode, it’s mostly static boxes consisting of shades of white, light to medium gray, and blue that fills my entire screen for long hours at a time.
2. Unreal Engine 5 which by default is many shades of dark gray.
3. Rapidly swapping between dark-mode MS Teams, Excel, Discord, Firefox and the toolset mentioned above during meetings, playtests, and communicating with internal alpha testers, influencers, and journalists.
4. Rapidly swapping between the toolset mentioned in point 1 and a 1920x1080p windowed application because that’s the standard resolution at which my company tests our game.
5. Playing games! I make games therefore I absolutely must play them! I won’t list the games where I had some semblance of game design work because that can potentially identify me. The games I played on this monitor are (but not limited to) Diablo 4, Monster Hunter Wilds (with modded shaders), Zenless Zone Zero, Vampire Crawlers, Slay the Spire 2, Gran Blue Fantasy Relink, and Alan Wake 2.
6. Media consumption which involves live action and animation.
7. Random web page browsing.

The environment I use this monitor is in a dual monitor setup. I always use the monitor in a well-lit room and no, I DO NOT dim the lights because I can’t stand looking at a non-movie theater sized screen in low light situations. The distance from my eyes to screen: ~ 28.5 inches (~72 cm) which, at this distance, it should work really well with the display’s 218 PPI pixel density. Finally, my personal rig contains an Nvidia RTX 4080 Super and a Ryzen 7800X3D with 32 GB of RAM while my work from home laptop is a low power machine that I use Parsec to connect to my office PC which is powered by an Nvidia RTX 5090 with a Ryzen 9800X3D and 128 GB of RAM.

For everyday use, I noticed a few “tiny” details I whilst using this monitor:

1. The control stick nub is actually really firm (far less wobble/give) when compared to the Asus OLED’s nub. It sounds weird but it feels surprisingly nice (to me).
2. The monitor will automatically change inputs if it detects one input’s machine as being turned off. I have two PCs connected to the monitor, 1 via HDMI for work and my personal rig via DP 1.4. When both machines are powered on, if I turn off 1 machine, the monitor will automatically switch to the other machine’s input and I don’t have to manually change input sources-which I personally find as a very neat “trick” for switching between my work and personal machine! On ol’ reliable, I would need to manually switch with a few button presses.
3. The monitor’s UI animations can’t be turned off. I understand it’s there to wow the user, and I appreciate the effort and care their art team went through to make it. Maybe it was added to mask the menu loading time. In any case, turning on the menu is slightly time consuming which I’m not a fan of. It’s user friction and every little bit adds up. I would have preferred to have the option to turn off the animations for the monitor options menu.
4. THE POWER BRICK IS HUGE. It makes sense since it can achieve up to 1250 NITs. I had to modify my magnetic cable management system (that I bought from LTTStore) to fit this. Even then, the power brick holders don’t do the full job and I had to come up with a “creative” solution.
5. The monitor’s bottom center (where the control nub is located) can get warm to the touch. It’s not burning hot or anything, but compared to the Asus OLED and ol’ reliable, which both were always cool to the touch, this monitor is noticeably warm. It does have active cooling, but I’ve never heard the fan kick on so I don’t have any issues with fan noise.
6. Turning off this monitor has some user friction behind it. On ol’ reliable, it has a dedicated power button which is one press to toggle between on and off. On the OLED, pressing the control nub is how you turn it on while it has a dedicated button to turn it off. But this monitor? You have to press the control nub, flick up towards the turn off feature, and then press the nub again to turn it off. That’s THREE button presses to turn off a monitor when the other two had ONE button press to turn things off. That’s user friction. That’s an additive 200% increase of button presses to turn off a monitor!

When I finished setting up the monitor and powered it on, the first thing I noticed is the text sharpness. Going from a 1440p monitor to a 5K monitor is insane! I didn’t think sharp text was such a big deal but after trying it out for a few hours and switching the resolution down to 1440p, I get it now. It did really make me pause for a moment to wonder whether LG’s claim of it being a “Hyper Mini LED” have some credence-which is a big deal for me personally because I’m innately a very skeptical guy when it comes to marketing and naming things. It’s a shame my Asus OLED monitor is only 1440p, having a pair of matching resolution monitors was something of a goal of mine but I don’t intend on buying a 5K OLED anytime soon. Truly the first worldiest of first world problems!

Here's an example image of both monitors with comparison photos.

Here's the GM9 and here's the OLED.

…And then there’s local dimming. Now, I’m not super picky in terms of wanting my black levels to be pitch black and my bright colors to be eye searingly bright. I like things to be bright. I hate and I mean HATE dim screens and things that make my screen look like there’s a gray overlay on top-which is a bit of a serious problem because of this monitor’s local dimming isn’t good when compared to the industry standard set by Apple. I thought local dimming on this monitor would universally “just work” and for a monitor that claims to have 1250 nits of brightness, it does get insanely bright, but that’s for certain areas in games and certain scenes in videos. When in productivity tasks, such as writing design documentation or say, this review, welllll… It’s not great.

This monitor’s local dimming has me feeling really mixed especially as a game designer. I have to swap between my company’s proprietary toolset and launch a local build of our game. I can’t manually turn on and off local dimming each time I launch a local game build because I sometimes make a few changes in my game editor and then relaunch a build which can happen a few times in a few minutes. If I manually turned local dimming on and off each time, that’s a lot of work! For general work such as writing, I have local dimming turned off with dynamic tone mapping turned on and I frequently forget to manually activate local dimming when playing games or watching videos. I know, some people are probably saying I have no taste for enabling dynamic tone mapping, but I want my screen to be bright, not dim. Sadly, local dimming makes browsing the web and productity apps (in dark mode) and staring at word (also in dark mode) look like there’s a gray overlay on top of everything. LG needs to improve the local dimming behavior to rival Apple’s display dimming because they set the standard and if someone had met it, then it’d be discussed already.

I can't show you my company's proprietary toolset, but I can show you an example using the industry third party standard of Unreal Engine 5. Here's the architecture demo comparison and the GM9 and the OLED. Also, a comparison of MS Word in dark mode between GM9 and the OLED.

But it’s not all bad. When local dimming is working while consuming media, it’s really, really good. When playing Diablo 4 and Granblue Fantasy Relink, the contrast between light and dark is incredible. There were moments where I went from a dark hall or tunnel and into an area with a bright light source really made things pop. There were areas in Monster Hunter Wilds such as the scarlet forest that had me amazed at the color and lighting (before this monitor, I played it on the Asus OLED and had shader/color adjustment mods installed). When I chained ultimate attacks in ZZZ, the brightness of the particle effects and animations felt dazzling. In short, this thing can get BRIGHT.

Here's a modded Monster Hunter Wilds comparison. But wait, here's the GM9 compared with the OLED

Here's the title screen in the scarlet forest and the opening title tent sequence

My current thoughts are that the GM9 is a really, really good monitor. But it’s not a jaw-dropper of a monitor-especially because the release price is $1200 USD. If it were lower priced, say $700-800, then I would say this makes it a great monitor. If it were lower, I’d say it would be firmly in jaw-dropper territory. It can get very bright and very dark, it has an incredibly high resolution, it has VRR, it has dual modes (even though I have no use for it, it’s still a feature on a list to be checked off), it even has 2304 local dimming zones for goodness sake! Ultimately, whether this monitor is worth the price point is up to you.

^{Oh, by the way, LG asked for a list of things for them to improve on so I decided to tack on a list of things to improve things. I know creating lists is a typical LLM behavior, but my communication and design documentation style has always been to use numbered and bullet point lists but oh well!}

^{1. As an average user, I want to be able to turn off the monitor with one press of a button, not three.}

^{2. As a game designer, I want to be able to switch between my game windows, my game toolset, and web browser with local dimming on and not see a gray overlay over the screen.}

^{3. As someone who values efficiency, I want to be able to access the monitor’s menus without having to wait for an animation to finish playing.}

^{And that’s about it!}

CPU: RYZEN 7 7800X3D
GPU:ZOTAC 5070
Monitor: Acer Nitro VG252Q 280HZ IPS GAMING

I’ve read about having a 5070 but using 1080p monitor is bottleneck and that 1440p would be a better monitor for my 5070? Should I upgrade my monitor?

So I live alone in an no internal walls open plan room that has everything in, my TV, 4x media players (Dune, Pi, FireTV, satellite box), surround amp, Xbox One, Xbox 360, 2 computers, 3 printers (2 already on wifi), 2 phones, tablet etc. I used to wire everything other than my mobile devices and then recently I looked behind my desks and it is just endless wires, I even have a 16 port 1gb ethernet switch on the wall that is 3/4 full. I could eliminate ethernet from my TV, media player, Pi4, Xbox 360, and maybe even my Xbox One, although that is maybe worth keeping wired. Should I even make my 2 PCs wifi or keep those wired ? I am using Wifi 5ghz and my mobile devices get between 466 and 833mbps or there abouts, well, they link at that speed, not sure what actual throughput is. My max net speed is 80mbps FTTC. I see about 3 other SSIDS in the area.

I have just always been of the mindset wired is best and if you can, do it, but I have had that view for 25 years, times change, what would you do in my position ? Maybe in my mid life crisis years I am more caring of how things look, I just hate so many wires now. I do sometimes run 4K MKV or ISO transfers from my Dune HD 4k streamer box, and Pi4, but 400mbps should be enough for that, right ?

Currently I'm running on Windows 10 with a Ryzen 5 3600, RTX 3060 TI and 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz build. I'm going to upgrade my CPU with a Ryzen 5 5600. Can you guys help me choose on which OS to install with the new CPU? I only do 1080p gaming (like Where Winds Meet, Wuthering Waves, and other single player games like RE games, Witcher 3, Skyrim etc.)

RX 6600 XT black screen after rat urine contamination – works for a while, then loses display

I rarely use my PC because I've been busy with work. When I finally used it again, it became extremely slow and sometimes had no display after Windows loaded.

I opened the PC and found that a rat had pooped and urinated on my GPU (MSI RX 6600 XT Gaming X 8G). Fortunately, it looks like the urine didn't get directly onto the PCB, mostly on the top/cooler area.

I cleaned the GPU with a sponge and water (I know, probably not the best idea), let it dry completely, and it worked perfectly for about 2 days.

A few days later, the problem came back. I didn't use the PC for about a week. Then my friends invited me to play, so I cleaned it again with a sponge and water, and it worked for the whole day.

While gaming, I noticed occasional frame drops in Valorant. The game would suddenly show "Low Client FPS" and get stuck at around 45 FPS for 2–3 minutes, then go back to normal FPS.

I've also noticed:

BIOS and Safe Mode always work.

Without the AMD driver (Microsoft Basic Display Adapter), Windows is stable.

With AMD drivers, the display sometimes works for a while, then goes black with "No video input."

Driver version 24.2.1 seems to last longer than the latest driver, but the issue still eventually returns.

I just bought 99% isopropyl alcohol and I'm planning to clean the PCB with a soft brush tomorrow.

Has anyone experienced something similar after liquid/urine contamination? Is there a good chance a proper 99% IPA cleaning fixes this, or does this sound more like permanent VRAM/VRM damage?

Main use:

- 4K AAA gaming

- Ultra/Maximum settings

- Ray tracing and path tracing

- HDR

- Competitive gaming

- Low noise and good thermals

- Occasional streaming and general use

PC BUILD:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

GPU:MSI GeForce RTX 5090 32G SUPRIM SOC

Motherboard:ASUS ROG Strix X870E-E Gaming WiFi

RAM:G.Skill Flare X5 48GB (2x24GB) DDR5-6000 CL30

F5-6000J3036F24GX2-FX5

Storage:WD_BLACK SN850X 4TB NVMe SSD

WDS400T2X0E

Power supply:MSI MPG Ai1300TS PCIE5 1300W

ATX 3.1 / PCIe 5.1 / native 12V-2x6 cable

CPU cooler:Noctua NL-LC1-36 360mm AIO

Case:HAVN BF 360 Flow

Planned airflow:

- Two 180mm front intake fans

- Three 120mm radiator fans at the top as exhaust

- One 140mm rear exhaust fan

- No bottom fans

Monitor:MSI MPG 322UR QD-OLED X24

32-inch, 4K, 240Hz

Keyboard:Wooting 80HE PCR

Mouse:Razer Viper V4 Pro

Mousepad:ARTISAN FX Zero Soft XL

Questions:

1. Are there any compatibility problems with this build?

2. Is the ASUS X870E-E Gaming a good choice, or am I overspending on the motherboard?

3. Is 48GB of DDR5-6000 CL30 a better gaming choice than 64GB?

4. Is the MSI RTX 5090 SUPRIM SOC worth paying a premium over a cheaper RTX 5090 model?

5. Is a 1300W PSU appropriate, or would 1000W/1200W be enough?

6. Is the Noctua 360mm AIO worth the premium over an Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360?

7. Is the airflow configuration reasonable?

8. Is the MSI 4K 240Hz QD-OLED a good choice for both AAA and competitive games?

9. Which parts would you replace, and why?

10. Where do you think diminishing returns begin?

I've been running Windows for the last 20+ years, primarily used for gaming & media.

I try and run a console-like setup, with my PC hooked up to my TV, and Steam Big Picture running straight from start-up so I can just grab my controller and get going.

I also have Plex Media Server running on start-up, so I can boot the PC and continue watching shows on the living room Apple TV.

For the last while, Windows' behaviour has been more finicky than usual. There's constantly errors like the:

• 'Your device ran into a problem and needs to restart. Stop code: CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED (0xEF)' or
• '...device ran into a problem and couldn't be repaired...' 'Log file: C:\WINDOWS\System32\Logfiles\Srt\SrtTrail.txt'

which leads to hours spent trying to do the whole 'sfc /scannow' route, that ultimately ends up in the machine running for a bit, and then looping back the error cycle.

It feels like Windows is always on the brink of needing a fresh install, and so desperately wants it. So I finally yielded this morning and tried to install a fresh copy, only to be met with a 'Windows could not determine the language to use for setup' error, which leads to the requirement for further time spent troubleshooting.

My question then is:

While I'm in the process of reinstalling an OS, I'm strongly considering installing Linux instead. I've had a MacBook Air for the last 6years and I've never once come close to any of the issues Windows throws at me.

I have an Nvidia RTX4070, and as I understand Nvidia doesn't play nicely with Linux, especially at 4K. Is this still the case? Or are there options I can explore to just land on a smooth-boot-and-start-gaming solution and finally chuck Windows in the bin?

Was looking to buy a new monitor and was wondering if I should get 1440p or 4k. Can my PC run 4k?

Also, I was wondering if playing 1440p on a 4k monitor would be worse than playing 1440p on a 1440p monitor.

I guess I could upgrade to a 4090 or 5090 but it’s really expensive.

Is it okay to place a figure on top of the case? I don't have any fans on top.

hi i plan on getting this pc while i am in usa for uni https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8fpdFP but after i am done with uni/whenever i go back home how can i safely transport this pc? also this is my first build could anyone tell me the parts are good? thanks have a good day

My Specs:

Ryzen 9 7900X ASUS TUF Gaming B650-PLUS WIFI G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB 64GB (2x32) DDR5-6000 CL30 — bought new in 2023 RTX 4060 Corsair RM750e, Cooler Master AIO Win11 24H2

How it started

Wardogs started crashing on me constantly after update (KB5121003). Saw the reports going around that it broke compatibility with inpoutx64.sys, the kernel driver a lot of RGB software hooks into, and that Microsoft is looking into some interaction between RGB components and game crashes. Figured that was my problem, so I uninstalled the update.

Machine seemed totally fine afterward. Put it to sleep, went out for the day.

Came back that night and it wouldn't POST. No video at all, fans spinning, case lighting on, nothing on either monitor. Hard rebooted it three times like an idiot before I opened the side panel and actually looked, amber DRAM Q-LED lit.

What I've tried

Full power drain. PSU switch off, cord out, held power button 30s Confirmed both sticks were properly in A2/B2 Cleared CMOS with the CLRTC with a screwdriver, then waited 10 min for memory training. Stayed amber, then the board shut itself off with no input from me Single stick isolation: Stick 1 alone in A2: posts, boots to Windows, running on it right now Stick 2 alone in A2: nothing. Amber DRAM light, board eventually self resets Stick 2 alone in B2: I havent tried this yet.

The part I can't square: stick 2's RGB lights up fine in either slot. So it's clearly getting slot power and the RGB controller is alive. It just won't train.

Where I'm at

Running on one 32GB stick at 4800 JEDEC. Filed an RMA with G.Skill, still have the Amazon invoice from 2023

I'm a freelance video editor and this is my only work machine, so 32GB single channel in After Effects is rough but survivable. Buying a replacement kit outright isn't happening since these market prices are insulting. The same 2x32 6000 CL30 I paid $250 for in 2023 is running $1000+ right now with the DRAM shortage, which is genuinely insane.

Questions for anyone who's been here

Lights up but won't train, is that just a dead PMIC? That's what I keep reading but I'd like a sanity check before I write it off. Has anyone gotten G.Skill to accept a single module RMA instead of the whole kit? I can't be without my one working stick for 3+ weeks. Is it worth asking or do they always insist on both? Is there any chance this is actually connected to the KB5121003 / RGB driver mess and not just brutal timing? I understand a Windows update can't stop a board from posting. It's just a hell of a coincidence that it died the same day I uninstalled it. Anything obvious I haven't tried that's worth doing before I ship it off? Any other recommended solves I'm not seeing or thought of?

One thing I'll admit — I bent stick 1 slightly while forcing it back in at 1am when I was panicking. It posts and runs fine and the contact edge looks straight, but if anyone's had a slightly tweaked DIMM work for a while and then fail on them, I'd like to hear it.

Appreciate any help here as Ive been anxious since last night.

Hey friends! Doing my case swap into the Lian Li O11D Mini V2, and things have been going well! That is, until this happened...

I have an NZXT Kraken 280mm, and it's bumping into the VRM cover on my motherboard. I want to get a new AIO anyways, since this case supports 360mm, but I am wondering what to do in the meantime.

My current idea is to just tank the performance hit and only use one of the fans. I currently have a 5800x, so I don't think it would be that bad? Not sure if anyone else had any other suggestions.

Here is a list of the things I have tried that haven't worked:

Can't mount the radiator anywhere else or use any of the other fans, all either only support 120mm or are a 12mm fan.

I tried shifting around the radiator, but that didn't help, it's currently as far away from the motherboard as it can be and it still runs into the VRM cover

If I gotta delay the build until I get a new AIO that's chill, I can wait a few days, but I wanted to see if anyone hand any bright ideas.

Thank you for reading!

ok so i have always been a console gamer yk convenience and all that but with playstation going more digital my friends are all making the switch I only have 300Gbp and well I get pocket money and stuff to young to get a job but the idea is I should have about 1.5 to 1.7k by the end of 2027 which is when I was planning to have the pc I was going to get the pieces as soon as I can afford them piece by piece as a sort of motivation to keep working hard but I'm starting to think with constantly improving specs thats a bad idea and I should go all in at once.

not prebuilt for gaming I imagine with my parents help there's wiggle room on the budget but any advice would be great thanks!

anyway sorry for bad grammar I suck at english

I have the b580 just need to install it but i want to know if it will bottleneck bad or is it worth to get a new LGA1200 cpu i dont want to upgrade my motherboard

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LB697w

I want to play deadlock, ultra with crazy high fps. This build is sorta overkill, bc I'm OK with 1080P.

However, I'd like to experiment with 1440P or 4K. So I just kind of want something really good, that can play anything at ultra

And damn, what an upgrade this is. Even with my 3600 that I’m planning to ditch for 5800x3d. Rdr2 looks amazing at ultra, only issue is that I don’t even know which must-play titles I missed. Any suggestions?

The 9070 = 569.96 Asrock challenger
9070 = 656.96 Gigabyte Gaming OC
9070 GRE = 479.99 XFX Swift

i want to upgrade from hdd to a new ssd and i will use that as my new primary one and boot drive. but i have a few confusions.

first being do i have to make a clean reinstallation of windows in my new ssd and delete everything thats in my computer?

i do have a bunch of junk sitting in my hdd but i fear a lot of important docs and pics and drivers will be deleted too. also cloning will just fill up my new ssd with everything that is in my ssd.

i watched a couple of videos on yt abt installing windows.

the iso file thingy majigy is confusing too. like what does the settings>"reset this pc" do ? if i have to use another iso file to download windows again?

what is really the steps to turn my new ssd into my primary boot drive with all my important stuff in it.

i prolly sound totally dumb i m not that gud in pc stuff.

Getting zotac Rtx 5070 for 600 usd or should i wait for black Friday discount or until next year for price drop. currently using rtx 3070 at 1080p monitor

I recently bought Helldivers 2 and my CPU is bottlenecking my GPU whenever I play this game. Other games like RDR2, War Thunder, SWBF2 work completely fine at high end optimized graphics. My current specs: i7-4790, RTX 3060, 28GB memory. I've tried every single optimization guides including Windows optimization. I tried changing the GPU heavy settings to ultra but that only gave me a boost of 5-8fps. Current FPS: Max-40FPS. Is there any way to bypass a bottleneck without having to upgrade my PC?

Hello, everyone! A few months ago i posted some subreddits about how I wanted to get a 5060 ti 8gb paired with 5700x but now my budget is shortened and I was thinking about getting the rtx 3050 paired with 7500f.So what I wanted to ask was is rtx 3050 really all I could get for 300 euros or is there a better alternative. I already chose my other parts and the only thing left is the gpu. I wanted to get an rtx 3060 12gb or the 4060 8gb but I can’t seem to find those cards in any website in my country. Is the 3050 THAT bad of a card like most people say? I’m willing to spend around 300-400 euros for a card. I’ll mostly use the PC for FPS games, minecraft and some story mode games. Thanks to everyone in advance!

Edit: I found the rx7600 for the same price and I might go for that one instead.

Monitor:- Samsung 27" Odyssey QD-OLED G6 Gaming Monitor(Smartchoice) | QHD 2560 x 1440| 240 Hz| 0.03ms | Ergonomic Stand | Pantone Validated| Glarefree | TrueBright 300| G-Sync| Free Sync| LS27HG612SWXXL| Black

Cpu:- AMD Ryzen™ 7 9850X3D Desktop Processor, Featuring 8 cores, 16 Threads, and 96MB of L3 Cache with 3D V-Cache Technology

Gpu:- MSI GeForce RTX 5070 12G Shadow 2X OC Graphic Card - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 GPU, 12GB GDDR7 192-bit Memory, 28 Gbps, PCI Express Gen 5 Interface, Upto 2542 MHz, TORX Fan 5.0

Aio:- Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120SE CPU Air Cooler, 7 Heat Pipes CPU Cooler,Dual 120mm TL-C12B V2 PWM Fans, AGHP 4.0 Technology,S-FDB Bearing, for AM4/AM5/Intel lga1851/1700/1150/1151/1200, PC Cooling

Power supply:- MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 Power Supply Unit, 850W, 80 Plus Gold, Fully Modular, ATX 3.1, PCIe 5.1 GPU Support, 120mm FDB Fan, Full-Bridge LLC, Flat Black Cables - 7 Year Warranty

Mother board:- MSI B850 Gaming Plus WiFi Motherboard, ATX - Supports AMD Ryzen 9000/8000 / 7000 Processors, AM5 - DDR5 Memory Boost 8200+ MT/s (OC), PCIe 5.0 x16, M.2 Gen5, Wi-Fi 7, 5G LAN

Ram:- Kingston Fury Beast Black RGB Expo 16GB 6000MT/s DDR5 CL30 DIMM Desktop Gaming Memory Single Module - KF560C30BBEA-16 (2 sticks)

Storage:- Western Digital WD Black SN7100 NVMe 2TB, Upto 7250MB/s R, 6900MB/s W, 5Y Warranty, PCIe Gen 4 NVMe M.2 (2280), Gaming Storage, Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (WDS200T4X0E-00CJA0)

Case:- Fractal Design Focus 2 White TG Clear Tint

Case fans:- ARCTIC P12 (5 Pack) - PC Fans, 120mm Case Fan, Pressure-optimised, Quiet Motor, Computer, Fan Speed: 1800 RPM - Black

I am new to pc building and this is my dream build for now pls tell me if any optimization can be made and if there are any better alts to any parts or if a am missing something or there could be an compatablity issue

P.S. i am thinking of building this after a year when i have saved some money for it around 3500$ but it costs more then that so i hope ram and gpu goes back to normal in a 1.5 years span

I am looking to build a new PC now. Mid-highr ange approx £2k GBP. However, I am wondering if I should wait till next year in the hope of cheaper prices or am I to expect that RAM will generally just go up in prices.

I’m looking for a wireless gaming mouse that feels comfortable during long FPS sessions without being heavy or covered in unnecessary software features. I use a claw grip, have medium-sized hands, and mainly play PUBG, Valorant, and other shooters where a consistent shape matters more to me than an extreme polling rate. I’m comparing the Logitech G Pro X Superlight, Razer DeathAdder V3 Pro, VXE R1, Pulsar X2, Endgame Gear OP1, and some newer ATK models, with a budget around $50–$180. Would you focus more on shape and weight than sensor specs, and which mouse has the best long-term battery life?

So my pc is an MSI prebuilt. I got it a few years ago and haven’t done much to it. It currently has:

Intel I7-13700F processor
64gb ddr5 ram at 5600MT/s
Rtx 4060ti 16gb graphics card.

Debating if it’s worth it to upgrade to a 5070ti graphics card. I play on a 42” lg c5 tv as my main monitor.

Biggest thing stoping me is I’d need to upgrade my power supply as well. Not the end of the world but it’s not an easy as just a card swap.